Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

have picked up a standard BF XR6 turbo intercooler from my mate to fit in the front of my skyline. I have a 600*300*75 in there at the moment but have had to cut the reo to fit it in. Due to the Po Po having a bit of a blitz on IMO240 emmission tests over here in WA at the moment im trying to dull down the visuals of my car and have decided to fit the smaller cooler in the front and weld the cut out section of my reo back in to get it back to legal(ish). has anyone tried to fit one and results/pic of piping if possible. My mate run 400rwhp at 14 psi through the cooler so i dont think it will be a problem running 350rwhp at 15 psi through it in my car.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I thought of this idea a while ago n thought it was great as you can use the stockish intercooler pipes slightly modified n paint the cooler black to avoid any attention.

dunno about their efficiency as the xr6 makes power from lower boost and larger capacity, mounting this cooler to ur r33 which needs more air displaced at higher temps might be a bit difficult for it to cool at 350rwhp; either way, try it out n maybe add some WMI later down the line, tune fore safety jst in case of a hot day but since its mounted at the front, doubt it will get heat soak quickly like the side mounter; jst no standing burnouts n u should be cool.

the way i looked at it is that im not always on the go peddle and i don't do skids. i like my power for a bit of strip work and the ability to have a bit of power when i need it (overtaking).

lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Translation: U have an r34 SMIC in your r33 and 'dont know' how hot the intake temp is; not talking about water temp here. I have a photo of my car from the auction house in japan, cant get any new ones cos my cars been impounded from doing burnouts all day long (30seconds before getting caught)

lolz jst mucking round

lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Go and face palm yourself in a mirror.

Water temp gauge has little to no bearing what so ever on inlet temp.

You car could be detonating its tits off due to super high intake temps and water temp gauge will look fine.

is that rite little john nah it pops mean skids and yea the intake temp is hot but hasnt failed yet i only run 6.7 psi for burnouts also which helps a tinny bit for doing burnouts and my car has never been impounded and never will be and that photo is of my car be4 i purchased it . Tardomatic response unit.

and if u like when these proxies get bald ill do u a burnt out and post it and we see how many seconds i get

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

Also have this ting called a brand new oxyengen sensor which as u should know caculates the exhaust temp and from that it calculates the intake temp and ecu sets the right air to f mix depending on boost level mind u which is why im staying with 6.7 psi till i get a better turbo and ecu also sticking with e stand exhaust hollowed out :yes: i beat ur ganna moan about that one all my life heh.

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

oh boy.. thats hectic... you should get yourself a red dragon bro.. they is full hectic.

6.7psi... thats pretty hectic boost bro.. and what do you use to measure that? and considering the standard R33 GTSt runs 7psi... how are you lowering it by 0.3psi?? thats way cool..

new oxygen sensor... wowzers.. thats rocking.. shame the water temp sender, afm, and coilpacks are probs still 17 years old.

oxygen sensor senses how much unburnt oxygen is still in the exhaust gas after combustion ..not the temp... the cat temp sensor does that.. but is probs dead. it works on a closed loop circuit and corrects itself constantly. but its by no means an effective way of tuning.. hooking a fully hectic a/f gauge up to the 02 sensor is not an effective way of checking the a/f ratio either.. only way is to put a proper sensor in the exhaust with a proper gauge.

VL commodores do better skids than skylines... go buy one of them.

im guessing my actuator is the reason it only goes to 6.7 psi and that reading was from the dyno lol at heres the af ratio at 3500rpm = 12.2 lol and at 6500rpm af ratio = 11.4 boost hits max at 6.7psi at 4200rpm and holds steady till 6700rpm and 840 nm at 3100 and tails of to 731 nm at 6700rpm and kw curves to 150.1kw to 6700rpm outside airteam 20c air pressure 1011mb

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

pretty much... the buggers run that rich at WOT so the o2 sensor is useless.. its mainly to reduce emissions etc. when potting around and idling.. the car must have ALL sensors working properly to run properly... even then they are tuned so rich so idiots cant destroy them... that all changes after 17yrs though and stuff starts to breakdown, and you run it on aussie fuel in aussie conditions.

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

well there you have it... and you missed my point.

Doesn't the ECU ignore the O2 sensor at wide-open-throttle and revert to standard uncorrected maps anyway?

Yep - Exactly right.

So whatever R33NZSL33PA was talking about with O2 sensors and fuel is purely and utterly wrong. Same with AFR's meaning there won't be detonation. :yes:

Doesn't surprise me though, plenty of people with a lot to learn (trying to see the positive to a silly hoon)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...