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Hey guys,

have picked up a standard BF XR6 turbo intercooler from my mate to fit in the front of my skyline. I have a 600*300*75 in there at the moment but have had to cut the reo to fit it in. Due to the Po Po having a bit of a blitz on IMO240 emmission tests over here in WA at the moment im trying to dull down the visuals of my car and have decided to fit the smaller cooler in the front and weld the cut out section of my reo back in to get it back to legal(ish). has anyone tried to fit one and results/pic of piping if possible. My mate run 400rwhp at 14 psi through the cooler so i dont think it will be a problem running 350rwhp at 15 psi through it in my car.

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I thought of this idea a while ago n thought it was great as you can use the stockish intercooler pipes slightly modified n paint the cooler black to avoid any attention.

dunno about their efficiency as the xr6 makes power from lower boost and larger capacity, mounting this cooler to ur r33 which needs more air displaced at higher temps might be a bit difficult for it to cool at 350rwhp; either way, try it out n maybe add some WMI later down the line, tune fore safety jst in case of a hot day but since its mounted at the front, doubt it will get heat soak quickly like the side mounter; jst no standing burnouts n u should be cool.

the way i looked at it is that im not always on the go peddle and i don't do skids. i like my power for a bit of strip work and the ability to have a bit of power when i need it (overtaking).

lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Translation: U have an r34 SMIC in your r33 and 'dont know' how hot the intake temp is; not talking about water temp here. I have a photo of my car from the auction house in japan, cant get any new ones cos my cars been impounded from doing burnouts all day long (30seconds before getting caught)

lolz jst mucking round

lol i got a r34 intercooling in my r33 and it does burnouts all day long no overheating at all and thats side mounted

Go and face palm yourself in a mirror.

Water temp gauge has little to no bearing what so ever on inlet temp.

You car could be detonating its tits off due to super high intake temps and water temp gauge will look fine.

is that rite little john nah it pops mean skids and yea the intake temp is hot but hasnt failed yet i only run 6.7 psi for burnouts also which helps a tinny bit for doing burnouts and my car has never been impounded and never will be and that photo is of my car be4 i purchased it . Tardomatic response unit.

and if u like when these proxies get bald ill do u a burnt out and post it and we see how many seconds i get

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

Also have this ting called a brand new oxyengen sensor which as u should know caculates the exhaust temp and from that it calculates the intake temp and ecu sets the right air to f mix depending on boost level mind u which is why im staying with 6.7 psi till i get a better turbo and ecu also sticking with e stand exhaust hollowed out :yes: i beat ur ganna moan about that one all my life heh.

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

oh boy.. thats hectic... you should get yourself a red dragon bro.. they is full hectic.

6.7psi... thats pretty hectic boost bro.. and what do you use to measure that? and considering the standard R33 GTSt runs 7psi... how are you lowering it by 0.3psi?? thats way cool..

new oxygen sensor... wowzers.. thats rocking.. shame the water temp sender, afm, and coilpacks are probs still 17 years old.

oxygen sensor senses how much unburnt oxygen is still in the exhaust gas after combustion ..not the temp... the cat temp sensor does that.. but is probs dead. it works on a closed loop circuit and corrects itself constantly. but its by no means an effective way of tuning.. hooking a fully hectic a/f gauge up to the 02 sensor is not an effective way of checking the a/f ratio either.. only way is to put a proper sensor in the exhaust with a proper gauge.

VL commodores do better skids than skylines... go buy one of them.

im guessing my actuator is the reason it only goes to 6.7 psi and that reading was from the dyno lol at heres the af ratio at 3500rpm = 12.2 lol and at 6500rpm af ratio = 11.4 boost hits max at 6.7psi at 4200rpm and holds steady till 6700rpm and 840 nm at 3100 and tails of to 731 nm at 6700rpm and kw curves to 150.1kw to 6700rpm outside airteam 20c air pressure 1011mb

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

Edited by R33NZSL33PA

pretty much... the buggers run that rich at WOT so the o2 sensor is useless.. its mainly to reduce emissions etc. when potting around and idling.. the car must have ALL sensors working properly to run properly... even then they are tuned so rich so idiots cant destroy them... that all changes after 17yrs though and stuff starts to breakdown, and you run it on aussie fuel in aussie conditions.

And yea ive onwed vl's there not as nice to drive as a skyline and a skyline in my opion does way better skids but each to there own :yes:

well there you have it... and you missed my point.

Doesn't the ECU ignore the O2 sensor at wide-open-throttle and revert to standard uncorrected maps anyway?

Yep - Exactly right.

So whatever R33NZSL33PA was talking about with O2 sensors and fuel is purely and utterly wrong. Same with AFR's meaning there won't be detonation. :yes:

Doesn't surprise me though, plenty of people with a lot to learn (trying to see the positive to a silly hoon)

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