Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 Steps...

1) Zorbel leather cleaner from saddleries and then...

2) AutoGlym leather conditioner

I use this on the black 'Nappa' leather of my wife's BMW. Same as 'Connolly' leather.

OR... you can go the whole hog and get...

1) Connolly Leather Treatment

2) Connolly Leather Conditioner

3) Connolly Leather Cream for $250 more

theres hardly any product for the suede. just buy a brush and give it a good brush up and down and avoid eating inside your vehicle.

^^^True!

After the Brush Treatment you can then spray Scotch Gard to protect suede from penetration/permeation/osmosis/stain from sweat/sauce/semen/drink etc.

^^^True!

After the Brush Treatment you can then spray Scotch Gard to protect suede from penetration/permeation/osmosis/stain from sweat/sauce/semen/drink etc.

Gross.. use a towel..

Thanks for the tips on the leather guys much appreciated.

For the suede, Kitten makes a car seat cleaner, give that a go. I used it and it worked fine. You can also get the seats shampooed by a professional cleaner, had this done also after a cousin couldn't hold his insides after a big afternoon at the pub..

^^^True!

After the Brush Treatment you can then spray Scotch Gard to protect suede from penetration/permeation/osmosis/stain from sweat/sauce/semen/drink etc.

:) Mwahahaha! Nothing can protect your suede if that stains..

But i do spray scotchgard and every once in a while when it's really dirty ( got a three year old sitting in the back ) I'd use my Bissel upholstery cleaner machine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...