Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry if this has been discussed before but i wanna up the boost in my car without spending big bucks cause as u all know i'm a tightass ... what i want to know is if there are any differences in performance of different brand bleed valves eg gfb or turbosmart or greddy etc .... why overshoot occurs?? how bad this problem really is?? and also if anyone here has stuffed up a good engine by using a bleed vavle ??

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/
Share on other sites

There's nothing too special about the name brand bleed valves, Theres a shit load of guys out there who run homemade bleeds and if they are made and setup correctly you wouldn't have a problem with them.

The problem with bleed valves is they cant maintain the higher boost all the way to redline unless you set them up with a lot of piping and if you do then you will get a lot of spiking. Thats the trade off.

The greddy on the otherhand is a regulator type controller rather than a bleed and are a shitload better at maintaining higher boost to redline and have minimal spiking.

I'm in the process of building a home made regulator type controller and turfing my bleed valve.

Heres a link if you're interested

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Have fun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-593536
Share on other sites

i wanna up the boost in my car without spending big bucks cause as u all know i'm a tightass

good to know theres still honest men around! haha icon14.gif

I had a simple $100 turbosmart i think? bleed valve on my previous car and it did the job, I think i was one of the lucky ones though as mine used to hit about 14psi and bleed back a little bit rather then spike.

I think if your planning on running more boost in the future (turbo upgrade) etc you may as well outlay some more pennies and get a electronic one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-593550
Share on other sites

yeah .. i'm not going to plan to put on a bigger turbo or anything like that ... i just want that little bit of extra power ... got a full exhaust and pod ... but my boost is still very stock ... it only just passes 350mmhg in second (auto) ... but in first its just under 350mmhg ... and before i had those mods it was never ever passed that half way mark ... so yeah i just wanna put it up just that little bit :cheers: ... i wouldn't mind having a dyno but i doubt it'd be worth it ... i've got a proper boost gauge which i will put in soon just to see how accurate the stock one really is ... cause i thought those mods would of upped the boost more than it did ... but we'll see ... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-593658
Share on other sites

I don't entirely agree with what BHDave said about bleed valves. The ones that most guys make are generally pretty shoddy. they don't hold boost (bleeds back by like 5psi) and they spike something chronic or from what I have personally seen which is 7 examples if I remember correctly. Another reason to buy A brand name one is becasue some of these have a brass restrictor in the valve itself. This is designed to try and stop (read curb) wastegate creep. Turbosmart calls it something like GBC gated boost controller or something like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-594090
Share on other sites

I'm in the process of building a home made regulator type controller and turfing my bleed valve.

Heres a link if you're interested

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html

Have fun

I was in the process of building the same thing but then I got the PowerFC + Apexi boost controller.

So anyway I have the parts required to make this device if anyone is interested in buying them.

That is:

1 x R07-200-RNKG Inline 07 ¼ Regulator Relieving 7Bar;

1 x V07-200-NNKG Inline 07 ¼ Relief Valve 7 Bar;

2 x 2069-02 07 Spring 0.7 Bar (brown);

I have already installed the 0.7 bar springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-594299
Share on other sites

i am running a gfb bleed valve with my auto r32gtst and it works a treat! doesn't spike (although the hoses are very short) which many people claimed thaty would happen.

from what ive read the turbosmart ones are the most unreliable, while turboXS makes a very good one. GFB also no problems from first hand experience.

it actually loses about 1-2psi above 5000rpm but that i would expect from the stock turbo at 11psi and i don't think this is a bleed valve issue so much.

good luck and happy buying!

Waz.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-594581
Share on other sites

As a side note (as people normally do this when they fit a bleed valve) is it safe to disconnect the boost solenoid (without fitting a bleed valve) ie just to get rid of the two stage boost?

Is it as simple as disconnecting it? Or do you have to feed it 12V? Does it cause any harm just disconnecting it without feeding it 12V?

Sorry for all the questions, im a newbie :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-594896
Share on other sites

As a side note (as people normally do this when they fit a bleed valve) is it safe to disconnect the boost solenoid (without fitting a bleed valve) ie just to get rid of the two stage boost?

Is it as simple as disconnecting it? Or do you have to feed it 12V? Does it cause any harm just disconnecting it without feeding it 12V?

Sorry for all the questions, im a newbie :rofl:

i'm not sure how to install it either .. clint .. dean .. i may need ur help :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-595060
Share on other sites

Disconnecting the solenoid is not a problem. The ecu does not know the difference. I ran my solenoid disconnected for a very long time.

Did you just purely disconnect it? or did you feed it 12V (I read another post about someone feeding it 12V supposedly to keep it happy).

Is there a way to know whether its working or not? I guess the easiest way would be to keep an eye on the boost gauge and see if boost comes on in two stages...

You'd think that the eCU would know if the solenoid wasn't connected and report some error.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-595568
Share on other sites

i'm not sure how to install it either .. clint .. dean .. i may need ur help  :P

Hippy, dont be scared:) its easy. Just cut the vacuum line to the wastegate actuator, and put the valve in line with the solenoid. Then unplug the factory solenoid.

The factory solenoid is a type of bleed valve, when the revs hit 5000, it bleeds off enough air for 2psi extra boost.

The valve you are fitting, just allows a small amount of air (boost pressure) to escape to atmosphere, and therefore not being used to actuate the wastegate.

simple.

To adjust, wind the bleed vavle all the way SHUT, so all boost pressure is going to the wastegate, then back off 1/2 turn. Take for a spin, then repeat until you have the desired boost pressure, recommend not going over 10-11 psi with stock cooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-595746
Share on other sites

Guest MFX_R33

I have a homemade bleed valve, set up as a 2 stage. It cost me $70 buying the parts from Peps, and it does the same thing (I would say better than) the Turbosmart equivalent. The difference with mine is that don't have a fixed restrictor, which plays the biggest part in controlling the boost. I use and adjustable ball valve, to set the restriction. I have then used a fuel lock solonoid with an in cabin switch for the 2 settings. It is cheap simple and it works well. I have used it to the tune of 205 kw @ rears with 18psi and a small drop off towards the 7500 redline to 16 psi.

Jeff.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-596172
Share on other sites

I might hijack this thread temporarily so i can diagnose my problem. My bleed valve is currently not really workin rite.

I have a hose comin from my intercooler piping into the bleed valve, and then this into the wasgate actuator. Is this correct. At full antilock on the bv, i get stock boost, and at full clockwise, i basically get either uncontrollable boost or exactly the same as stock.

I dont know wats goin on. It must not be correctly installed?? I just recently installed a FMIC, would this change anythin?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28752-bleed-valves/#findComment-596481
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...