Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Key cutting is a given-Locksmiths do this for a living. As for the Programming of the NATS key, there are 2 options.

Option 1: Take the key(already cut and ready to go) to your preffered nissan dealership and ask the people there nicely to Program your key to your car, its a 2 min job with a consult system

Option 2: Now this is the tricky bit. It sounds easy and looks easy but its sometimes a pain in the ass if you arent fast enough. There is a simple set of Functions the car can use to recognise you are programming a ke as a secondary option. To do this you will need to:

Here they are....... enjoy!!

ID Code Entry Procedure

To enter the ID code, follow this procedure:

"Setting Mode":

1. Close and lock all doors.

2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will flash twice). At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.

ID Code Entry:

3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position

4. Push the "lock" button on the new remote control once(for example, if the door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice).

Additional ID code Entry:

5. If you need to activate additional remote control units, unlock the drivers door, then lock it again(WITH THE DOOR LOCK SWITCH).

6. Push the lock button on the additional remote once.

7. This ID code enable state and setting mode will remain until the drivers door is opened.

NOTE!!

* If you need to activate more than two additional keyless remotes, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote.

* If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.

*Entry of a maximum of four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.

*Any ID codes entered after termination of the "Setting Mode" will not be accepted. Additional keyless remote signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the setting mode.

*Some cars that were imported also had a NATS2 system that was varied to the normal Nats. You cant manually program these keys and will need to Take it to a Nissan Dealership to be Programmed with the CONSULT2 system. This may take up to 20 mins and therefore you may be charged a half hour block of labour.

Good Luck and hope this helps!! Might even get a sticky :P

  • 3 weeks later...

what if your key doesn't have the remote central locking button? My key is just the standard r34 gtr item

with the logo but no remote central buttons :P

does this mean I need to take it to Nissan to get programmed? Is it possible to program through a laptop via a consult cable??

Thanks ;)

On a side note, Dont go telling the whole world how to do it, there is bound to be some kid in an N13 pulsar that will lock himself out of the Nats ecu lol

Just slightly to the left of this topic, I have a 1999 Nissan Elgrand, it only came with 1 factory key, so we want to get 2 more keys cut. I was told by my alarm installer that I have some kind of key ID ring on my ignition barrel. He said that I have to get factory Nissan keys (not cheap) instead of the normal metal keys that we had with our 1997 Stagea.

Has anybody got around this?

Cheers, Greg.

so it has NATS2.8 on it? never seen one with that system there. the keyless side of things yes. never NATS though. is there a blue or red square at the base of the key?

Could anyone supply a part number or price for the key in post 10? Im keen on getting a second remote key.. but was told by nissan that it was going to be 330+gst and they couldnt tell me if it was the correct key!

Well Chris, the collar around my ignition barrel is the light, nothing more, nothing less! My mate who installed the alarm must have it confused with something similar to what he sees on newer Nissans!

post-22822-1254712881_thumb.jpg

post-22822-1254712916_thumb.jpg

I have another question regarding stereo wiring but I'll start a new thread for that!

Cheers, Greg.

Could anyone supply a part number or price for the key in post 10? Im keen on getting a second remote key.. but was told by nissan that it was going to be 330+gst and they couldnt tell me if it was the correct key!

that is the correct price.. they are NOT cheap.

got a chassis number and I'll look it up for you.

Well Chris, the collar around my ignition barrel is the light, nothing more, nothing less! My mate who installed the alarm must have it confused with something similar to what he sees on newer Nissans!

post-22822-1254712881_thumb.jpg

post-22822-1254712916_thumb.jpg

yep thats the plain barrel. the NATS one looks entirely different.

I had the same problem whe i got my car.. went to nissan and got a normal steel/ metal key.. got it cut and it does the same job.. except it doesnt have the remote entry to gain access to the vehicle!

what if your key doesn't have the remote central locking button? My key is just the standard r34 gtr item

with the logo but no remote central buttons :thumbsup:

does this mean I need to take it to Nissan to get programmed? Is it possible to program through a laptop via a consult cable??

Thanks :(

I know what your trying to do....you have the key with the red bit yeah?(transponder in there....)Im guessing you want to do that and not the central locking key fob....You maybe able to find a locksmith that has a tool to read your key and program the new key.....I posted the info for the fob quite some time ago here key fob....on another note you can also buy the fob from a nissan dealer and code it even if you dont have one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...