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Hi guys.

I know there is a sticky for a slyline buying guide (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/bu...r+buy&st=40), but i really only want to know about the 32 gtr's. I am thinking about buying one for around the 15k mark. it has 65 000 k's and has a 320km dash, it sounds and looks pretty good. I know the dash can be a hoax, also the 32 gtr's are 20 years old now so why are so many have small k's and will the engine be good? I just want to know what else to look for.

Any help is appreciated.

Julian

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For 15k I wouldn't be expecting much. Check interior wear to see if it matches up with the k's on the car. Gearstick boot, handbrake boot, condition of the seats, wear on the steering wheel & pedals.

When you drive it listen for any strange noises. diff, clutch, gearbox etc. Make sure when your shifting through the gears its smooth and doesn't crunch into gear.

Look for any smoke coming out the exhaust. Blueish smoke = turbos will need replacing.

I would get a compression test done as well to make sure all is well.

If you're unsure get a 3rd party inspection. Cheap GTRs tend to end up being expensive GTRs after the motor lets go so be wary.

For 15k I wouldn't be expecting much. Check interior wear to see if it matches up with the k's on the car. Gearstick boot, handbrake boot, condition of the seats, wear on the steering wheel & pedals.

When you drive it listen for any strange noises. diff, clutch, gearbox etc. Make sure when your shifting through the gears its smooth and doesn't crunch into gear.

Look for any smoke coming out the exhaust. Blueish smoke = turbos will need replacing.

I would get a compression test done as well to make sure all is well.

If you're unsure get a 3rd party inspection. Cheap GTRs tend to end up being expensive GTRs after the motor lets go so be wary.

tahast right either turbos or piston rings..

keep an ear out for tappets

or send it to phantom motors for inspections since they deal with GTRs alot.

it has 65 000 k's and has a 320km dash, it sounds and looks pretty good. I know the dash can be a hoax,

for 15k i don't think it would have such low k's

the reason for so many low k skylines on the market is because there is a lot of dodgy bastards out there winding clocks back

amen miso

For 15k I wouldn't be expecting much. Check interior wear to see if it matches up with the k's on the car. Gearstick boot, handbrake boot, condition of the seats, wear on the steering wheel & pedals.

When you drive it listen for any strange noises. diff, clutch, gearbox etc. Make sure when your shifting through the gears its smooth and doesn't crunch into gear.

Look for any smoke coming out the exhaust. Blueish smoke = turbos will need replacing.

I would get a compression test done as well to make sure all is well.

If you're unsure get a 3rd party inspection. Cheap GTRs tend to end up being expensive GTRs after the motor lets go so be wary.

thanks for the help. yeah i am very aware of the gtr's. Like they will need a major service which will cost $2000. i have a subaru liberty with a sti engine producing 150awkw which is pretty mint, but i have always like the 32 gtr's and it crossed my mind. Subaru or Nissan??

Lol I think he meant that was the question he asked himself :)

Anyway if you're going to fork out for a car, IMHO it's worth making sure you're doing it properly. Don't come in at the bottom end of the market because the odds that you'll get a shitter will be far greater, and as other have already said it'll probably end up costing you more in the long run. If you do your homework and are prepared to spend a bit more on the 'right' one, you're giving yourself a much better chance of ending up with an good, honest car. There's no guarantee of course, as mentioned these are cars that would have likely had 20 years worth of abuse, but if you can find a decent one they're well worth the effort. And they respond extremely well to modification, 300awkw is pretty easy on an engine in good nick.

If you're used to the Liberty you might find that the GTR will bite you when pushing hard. They handle very differently!

Lol I think he meant that was the question he asked himself :D

Anyway if you're going to fork out for a car, IMHO it's worth making sure you're doing it properly. Don't come in at the bottom end of the market because the odds that you'll get a shitter will be far greater, and as other have already said it'll probably end up costing you more in the long run. If you do your homework and are prepared to spend a bit more on the 'right' one, you're giving yourself a much better chance of ending up with an good, honest car. There's no guarantee of course, as mentioned these are cars that would have likely had 20 years worth of abuse, but if you can find a decent one they're well worth the effort. And they respond extremely well to modification, 300awkw is pretty easy on an engine in good nick.

If you're used to the Liberty you might find that the GTR will bite you when pushing hard. They handle very differently!

+1

Poor old 32 GTR's.

Pretty much ALL been flogged unfortunately..... Few and far between are stock, un-molested 32's....

33 GTR's are coming down in price though.... Still finding an un-flogged one is getting hard

if I was going to buy another 32R id check:

Engine Mounts

Diff Bushs

Gearbox 4th syncros @ speed (if you can)

Coilpack condition (splits, cracks etc)

compression

oil preassure

Tie rod ends and ball joints

interior condition

paint on plenum

dash bubble

brake rotor condition

reinforcement bar condition / if it looks like its been replaced

sills

tailshaft center bearing

suspension condition

any obvious signs of de-modification

particularly the bush's and rubbers will give you a good idea of if the car has been maintained or not. Im no expert but if I was buying one, having owned one, thats what id check.

For 15k it'll be rat shit.

$5k on drive line rebuild and another $5k for a basic motor rebuild.

exactly what he said..

imo save a bit extra cash and get what you pay for.. theres plenty of decent ones around but you need to pay more for them..

anything up to roughly 20k or so are gunna need work.. simple as that.. your better off paying extra for a good one..

i might be sellin mine soonish and its in excellent condition so ill be asking for a bit more and target a buyer that knows about them and appreciates a finer example..

As long as the body is good, that is the main thing.. You could pay $25k, and the engine could go and then you're up for $35k. Whereas if you can find one for $15k with a good body with an engine that may last (or may not), by the time the engine is rebuilt you are up for $25k. And at least you can choose the engine builder, and the way it's rebuilt.

A decent respray can cost as much as an engine build, and a bent body may mean the car will never be same as it rolled out of the factory.

TBH, unless you have deep pockets, don't buy a GTR unless you can do things yourself. Such as remove gearboxes, remove engines, diffs, etc. Learn.

has anyone yet thought of the chassis itself. get the car on a hoist and look underneath it for rust. boot floor pan, inside the rear lower quarter panels. in the rear inner tubs especially towards the front of the car, chassis rails to rot around the rear subframe especially, engine bay tubs, and on the firewall near the windscreen. who cares about the motor if the chassis is f**ked.

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