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hey guys,

upon inspecting the engine bay the other day i found this:

(sorry for the shitty phone cam pic)

post-39016-1253179242_thumb.jpg

the white/grey plug is disconnected and appears to lead to the aac valve

Is this done for a reason?

i connected it to see what happens and the idle goes all over the shop

should also note that at the moment when the a/c is on idle is a bit wonky (ie: when coming to a stop revs drop down to 500/600ish rpm and car almost dies, will also do this randomly when stopped at lights etc)

not sure if thats related at all?

car is automatic r34 gtt, 98 model

any ideas?

Cheers

Edited by stenve
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It's possible been disconnected, because it's causing the ruff idle? Try taking it off and giving a good clean out. I've done this with r32's and it's helped clean up the idle. presume 34's are the same.

P.s. I'm having issues with my r34, and need to get hold of a tip 34. Could you do me a major favour. On the side of your intake there's 3 plugs, red black and silver. could you unplug the silver, and try start it? Would really appreciate if you could. understand if you don't want to. Thanks.

thanks mate,

i tried what you asked (disconnected grey plug) starts up first go and idles fine.

Edit: ok scrap that.

took aac valve off cleaned it out, put it back on and connected it.

it started idling at 2000rpm and i went "oh no"

then i screwed in the idle screw just a little and it dropped all the way down to 1100rpm

fine tuned it down to 800rpm and all is good (air con works fine etc)

problem solvered

Edited by stenve

i have the same problem stenve,

i just havent taken mine out to clean it yet.

ill be doing it tomorrow so hopefully it solves my problem too.

when started and car is cold, does your car idle funny or only when warm or all the time?

it idled fine with the aac disconnected. it just didnt compensate for things like ac when sitting idle at lights etc.

I only tried starting the car once with it plugged in and i cant remember if it was a cold start or what... but the revs were all over the place.

car is cooling down now. i'll go start it from cold again later and see what happens now its all clean. it seemed perfect when i checked it just before though

yeap cool, im pretty sure this is the problem on mine

cause i drove it for like a month with it disconneted, i didnt even know until i serviced the car and i noticed it.

pluged it back in and car idled lumpy and crap so i dc it, and idled fine but it would stall randomly when coming to a stop.

its connected back up now, but on cold start it idles funny but ok when warm, i had to play around with it to get it idling ok, not perfect tho.

Good to hear you got idle under control. Thanks very much for doing that check for me, although wasn't the answer I was looking for. I couldn't ask one more favour? Could you identify the colour of the wires that plug into it (not the engine loom side) And where they run too? A picture would be perfect, but again, mite be stretching ya a bit far. Sorry to ask of you again. Thanks

yeah mines still not idling perfect either, when in neutral its spot on 750rpm and stays there. put it in drive and it goes up and down a bit, esp with the ac on.

gave it a cold start this morning and the revs sit at about 1200rpm for a minute or 2 then drop down to normal.

might need a little fine tuning still, but it's alot better than before.

Mawzy: i'll try have a look sometime today. but its about a 11ty billion degrees outside. see how i go

:) This may be a bit of help if you've cleaned out you're AAC valve thingo (R34GTT)

idlespeed.th.jpg

double clic to enlarge then double click again to supersize

I think if you have a big zorst and/or pod you may find that even when set it'll still run a bit over the OE 650/700 rpm set level.

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