Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings all,

I was wondering whether R32 GT-R oil pressure gauges commonly show different values? Mine will go from 4 kg/cm2 down to almost no indicated pressure and back again in one short space of driving. I don't seem to be able to hear any rattling from the top half of the engine while it's supposedly got no pressure (according to the gauge)

I'm kind of hoping that it's not the oil pump on it's way out, and it's just the gauge on the blink!

Has anyone else had this issue before?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288484-gt-r-oil-pressure-guage/
Share on other sites

If you had searched, you would have discovered that the sender units are a bit suspect.

If you are concerned about a total loss of oil pressure, there is also a "oh sh!t" warning light when you actually have no pressure.

Hey thanks Mr elk, that calms the nerves a bit. I did a search but maybe I put the wrong key words in, because it helped me nowt.

I wanted to make sure it wasn't a sign of the pump failing, because I'm aware of these being 'suspect' also...

Yep, my oil pump blew and I thought it was just a faulty gauage sender. An expensive lesson learnt indeed. If I were to see any variations with my gauge again I will take it straight to my mech. Get the sender sorted out straight away or install an external guage completely. Try not to take it too lightly because you never know....

I'll give the sender a clean asap, at least I'll hopefully know whether it's this part playing up. Might be a good idea to install an aftermarket pressure gauge for peace of mind. A blown engine due to oil pump failure would bring a tear to my eye...

Thanks for your input guys ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...