Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Team,

I have been waiting for a while for my size semi slicks, but nothing yet, I now have 10-20% tread left and I need tyres before my next sprint round.

So my question is, I know I'll be losing 20mm of track - but overall, how would it effect my handling? is it going to be different in anyway, shape or form??

do I just wait and hope my supplier can get the 205's before mid October (50% chance!!) or take the gamble and get the 195's ?

(this is for my mx5, not a skyline too :O )

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288695-tyre-width-noticable-difference/
Share on other sites

You won't lose any "track" - that is controlled by the wheel design, specifically the offset.

So I doubt you'll notice much difference at all in handling with 10mm less rubber width.

yeah unlikely you will notice the difference. and for sure a good tyre 10mm narrower will still handle better than a wider, worserer tyre.

in fact for supersprints you may find it improves times as they will come up to temp a little quicker, and may not go off with a short run

Give hornibrook tyres a call and see if they can get your size.

I recently picked up some new re55's for 380 a corner inc shipping, which isn't far off the 340 i paid for r888's at taleb last time.

I'm not sure if the pricing was specific to the size i bought but it's worth a shot regardless.

if you were to be using the same compound tyre etc, but 10mm skinnier then there is going to be a difference on performance. and it won't always be bad, but there will be some negatives. overall you are losing 40mm of tyre (assuming you need the tyres for both front and rear). which is nearly 5%

negatives of skinnier tyres:

less traction off the line

less grip when cornering and braking

go off quicker

positives of skinnier tyres:

less rolling resistance (faster acceleration once traction is no longer an issue and higher top speed)

lighter (again, faster acceleration) (yes i know that the weight difference will be minimal but every little bit helps in a race)

come up to temp quicker (so more grip earlier)

Hi everyone.

Was about to post a similar question but hope it's ok if I ask it here. :thumbsup:

Im looking at a set of 18" rims, 8.5 front, 9.5 rear, that come with tyres 245/40 front, 275/40 rear.

I understand that to fit in my guards I have to look at getting smaller tyres, 225/40 front, 245/40 rear. The tyres I'm looking at don't come in 245/40, only up to 235/40.

Would it be ok to get the 235/40 for the rear? I have an r32 gts-t 4door. I don't do any aggressive driving, mostly daily driving to work and highway kms as well.

Thanks for any help.

Kye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...