Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys unfortunately I'm finding out more and more wrong with this R32 that i bought last week lol i was really stupid to not try and find someone that knows what there looking for (bad things)

in a car before i bought it. but yeah im curious weather i should stick the the RB20 (146.000K) and fix the leak the turbo has. or totally convert it to the Rb25 because i only want to make the power that the 25 has out of my 20. so.. i dont know?? could any one help ? :( is is worth the money fixing the 20 rather than replacing it? i dont really even know if the turbo is leaking all im getting that from is from when my foot is flat from 2000rpm to 4000 boost hits what its suposed to wich is 12 or 13 on the guage but after 4000 it drops down slowly to 10 and then 8. ?? is that a leak?

payed 3 for my motor, 1.5 for the gearbox and ~1k labour, i could have gotten it cheaper but i bought the motor/gearbox seperately. If you are going to do the conversion make sure you do it all together, i did the motor first then the gearbox abit down the track because i didnt have the patience to save and do it all at once. payed the price and got stung 1k labour each time

what is this leak ? It isnt leaking oil by what I gather rather your boost is dropping off. what boost controller are you running ? What turbo is on it ?

what is this leak ? It isnt leaking oil by what I gather rather your boost is dropping off. what boost controller are you running ? What turbo is on it ?

im really new to the turbo import scene sorry... im not exactly sure what it is but when i accelerate foot flat from 1800rpm to 4500rpm boost hits and stays at 13 but then after 4500 it creeps down to about 8. my boost controller is a manual twist top type. should i maybe adjust it down ? its only a stock turbo with stock cooler.

Just because there is a bit of leaky oil you wanna change out the motor?

no not because of the leak but just what iv herd about the 25's all people ever tell me is that there bullet proof. are they kidding me?

id rather pump a 20 all day long than a 25

After reading what people on here say about the 20 yeah i'm starting to agree. has anyone ever had a 20 rebuilt ? if so what did it cost and how long did it take ?

dude u got a boost leak. i had a similar problem. bought myself an electrnic boost controller and presto, hold boost fine now :D.

why the hell would u change the motor when there appears to be nothing wrong with your current one?

dude u got a boost leak. i had a similar problem. bought myself an electrnic boost controller and presto, hold boost fine now :D .

why the hell would u change the motor when there appears to be nothing wrong with your current one?

Oh OK thanks man. yeah im really really new to everything about these kind of things... i guess i jumped to conclusions too fast :) thanks dude i can sleep now lol

dude u got a boost leak. i had a similar problem. bought myself an electrnic boost controller and presto, hold boost fine now :D .

why the hell would u change the motor when there appears to be nothing wrong with your current one?

So are you saying you got an electronic boost controlller to fix a boost leak?

course not. but in my circumstance we eliminated the possibility of a boost leark (checked all hoses, intercooler piping etc),then changed the intake pipe to a steel item to illiminate it as being the culprit (by sucking shut),then even changed the turbo actuator. when all those failed, we installed a ebc (was running a turbosmart dual stage boost tap prior) and now she hold boost at 1.3 bar :(

course not. but in my circumstance we eliminated the possibility of a boost leark (checked all hoses, intercooler piping etc),then changed the intake pipe to a steel item to illiminate it as being the culprit (by sucking shut),then even changed the turbo actuator. when all those failed, we installed a ebc (was running a turbosmart dual stage boost tap prior) and now she hold boost at 1.3 bar :)

Can i buy a steel intake pipe? or do you have to get them custom made? also will a steel pipe with a pod on the end make a flutter/dose sound??

yeh u can buy them, apexi make a intake kit, but bit pricey. otherwise u can get one off ebay or ask any exhaust shop to make one up for u ;).

and yeh it flutters when u have a pod at the end of it

fk me, If you wanna swap the motor because of what sounds to be a small boost leak of some kind, then your best to take it to a mechanic who knows what he/she is doing to find the problem. Just so you dont wind up paying $5000 for something that might only cost 50 cents.

Good Luck

mate instead of sitting on the computer typing on a forum, why not book the car into a performance workshop (surprise, there are plenty of them) and get them to give the car a once over. then u have peace of mind knowing that the problems have been fixed, and u didnt have to fork out 7K for a new engine. 14 pound with a stock 32 cooler isnt the smartest idea either..

Thanks everyone :D i really appreciate everyone's opinion alot :cool: i needed it. Im going to go see a mechanic tomorrow in yatala. thanks heaps sorry if i wasted anyone's time on this stupid problem :)

OH one more stupid question... How does a manual boost controller work? iv twisted the top the way it says to twist to turn it down but when i tested it its still hitting 13. i think i may have to turn the nut that's under the top too?? sorry... i work in a computer store and get these kind of stupid questions from customers all the time and i know how annoying simple stuff like this is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...