Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My RB20 is pumping coolant out of itself and I've got no fking idea why. On a very short drive just now it near on filled the overflow bottle and there was bugger all coolant in the rad. The other day I took it for a decent thrash and the overflow bottle was bubbling away and pissing fluid out, the rad was pretty much dry, but the car didn't overheat or even rise in temp.

It seems like the cooling system is under way too much pressure. About the only thing I can think of that'd cause that would be blown head gasket, but there is no oil in the coolant and absolutely no smoke coming from the exhaust under load.

Is it possible to blow a hg in just the right spot to pressurise the cooling system but no have coolant enter the combustion process or would there be another reason for this?

I've tried to bleed out the air bubbles in the system using the little bolt on the front side of the inlet mani & also using the rad cap, both times it basically never stopped blowing bubbles out. Not sure if this is a clue or not to what could be happening.

Also, first time time I noticed this problem was after popping a cooler hose off when the turbo spiked to 1.5bar :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289177-rb20-cooling-system-problem/
Share on other sites

My RB20 is pumping coolant out of itself and I've got no fking idea why. On a very short drive just now it near on filled the overflow bottle and there was bugger all coolant in the rad. The other day I took it for a decent thrash and the overflow bottle was bubbling away and pissing fluid out, the rad was pretty much dry, but the car didn't overheat or even rise in temp.

It seems like the cooling system is under way too much pressure. About the only thing I can think of that'd cause that would be blown head gasket, but there is no oil in the coolant and absolutely no smoke coming from the exhaust under load.

Is it possible to blow a hg in just the right spot to pressurise the cooling system but no have coolant enter the combustion process or would there be another reason for this?

I've tried to bleed out the air bubbles in the system using the little bolt on the front side of the inlet mani & also using the rad cap, both times it basically never stopped blowing bubbles out. Not sure if this is a clue or not to what could be happening.

Also, first time time I noticed this problem was after popping a cooler hose off when the turbo spiked to 1.5bar :D

head gasket.. doesnt have to have oil in the coolant or smoke/steam in the exhaust.. its combustion pressurizing the coolant.. maybe when your boost spiked, it was enough to blow a hole in the head gasket.

is the car hard to start?? this can be a case of coolant in the combustion chamber and loss of compression due to it going into the coolant. pressure test the radiator.. if it drops but theres no external leaks, then its head gasket.

could also just be that your radiator cap has shat itself. however the chances that it just happened to stuff up at the same time as the cooler hose popped off would be pretty low.

i would more be leaning towards the head gasket though. i had an EA falcon as my first car and i did 2 headgaskets in it. both times it was around the time that it got a coolant leak (one time was a hole in a radiator hose, the other it blew a hole in the end tank of the radiator). both times i never had any water in the oil, or oil in the water, but it was hard to start and blew the smokey mist out the rear only when it was started after sitting for a while. in normal running it wouldn't

my money is on head gasket but i slight possibility if your turbo is water cooled is that it could be a blown gasket in the turbo between water and compressor. very slight possibility and not that many turbos are water cooled..

if it is head gasket dont drive it 2 much or you wont do 2 much good to the head or the mating face or the block either... its a day job to fix it by yourself.

if it is head gasket dont drive it 2 much or you wont do 2 much good to the head or the mating face or the block either... its a day job to fix it by yourself.

:thumbsup:

Have done about 30mins of sliding 2nd and 3rd through some quicker corners near my house after trying to fix some of the symptons described in the first post :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...