Jump to content
SAU Community

19's And Up Now Illegel In Wa

V35_Paul

By V35_Paul,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted

Got picked up last night for blue lights on my number plate but thats not the problem.

I got told i can't have 19" rims or higher. I said "what?" The cop says no car is now aloud to have anything larger then 18's since 4 weeks ago.

And he told me i can have neons on under my car at all times when driving as long as you can't see the GLOBE. Crazy!

Any one know more?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289551-19s-and-up-now-illegel-in-wa/
Share on other sites
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted (edited)

i call bullshit

my 300c srt 8 comes with stock 20 inch rims...

like to this the asshole cop u had give me a sticker for that... id tell him where to shove it.

Having said that, the legality of rims is based on what it came with from factory... u can only go up so many inches and so much more wider then stock...

so 19's can be illegal on some cars, while not on others. =)

Edited by br3ndan
rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

yeah, if your number plate don't have those blue neons on them, your life would have been easier cos you won't be pulled over in the first place...

now the copper decided to make your life more miserable, tough luck for you....

the only colours allowed by ADR and local state laws are amber, or white (for number plate, and reverse). brake light should be red, and turn indicator amber/orange... headlights must be amber or white...

imagine the confusion if someone have their brake light green... wouldnt the car behind the slowing down car add more gas and ended up rear ending the car with green brake lights?

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

does the tyre placard fitted with compliance listed 19"

I checked mine and the tyre placard fitted includes 19"

that's because 19" is available on V35 series 2, and basically the chassis of series 1 and series 2 are the same, so the 19" is permissible on any V35.

providing the width is not of crazy sizes... but looking at the link posted by andy, looks like you gotta stick with 19x8", keeping the width always 8"

V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
  • Author
Posted

He said anyone with higher would get a warning then have a week or something to change them. He also said it's not illegel to sell them so dealers and tyrer shops can sell them.

I guess it's only a matter of time before the word gets around and people start getting pulled over more.

He did quote the law to me.

mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted (edited)

You've been duped by a cop who "thinks" he can pull one over you. Ahh country cops, so "up with the times".

We are all governed by a national ruling NCOP14 http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/veh...ng_3Feb2006.pdf

In summary we can not increase tyre width by more than 30% over stock (OEM) or placard.

So Front can go from 225 out to max 292 (rounded to nearest avail size 285)

Rear can go from 245 out to 318 ( or 315 next avail size).

You can have any size Ø rim as long as you maintain aspect ratio and the overall diameter of the tyre is not more than 15mm larger than stock.

Also the tyres must be load rated to suit.

I suggest you print it out, highlight the parts pertinent and keep it with you and if he hassles you again, show him the error of his ways, then bend him over and shove it up his a**.

Hallelujah brudda.................

Edited by mosoto
scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
They are illegal from a taste perspective anyway. lol

Says the guy who apparently has an R33. :D

19"s may look like shyte on an "R" designated Skyline, but on a V they are proportional and actually look good.

Stephen Thorpe Proficient

Stephen Thorpe

Posted
Posted

I think he was joking about the taste thing!!

As for the Cop... what a moron and if you got fined tell him you will see him in court.

Must be a bit green if he is telling you that and you should not always believe what you are told, especially by Police.

Also, never ever agree with them at all, never admit blame, just in case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...