Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That looks like a great build!

Its a massive shame its in sweedish, becahuse there looks like there is a huge amount of information there that seems interesting and quite helpful too!

Just a couple of questions,

Whats the car going to be used for?

And why stick with the CA and not go SR?.. I suppose less poeple run CA's so its a little more different..

Yes, you are right. There is a lot of information about how to rebuild gearboxes, upgrade the brakes, engine tuning, chassis tuning and so on. The information I put up here is just a short pick of it.

I use the car mainly on the street and from time to time on tracks and 1/4 mile. It is great fun. When I lived down in France, I once took it to Monaco and drove slowly by the Casino. It got more attention than many of the Fers, Lambos and Bentleys. I like! :(

The Ca is capable of a lot of power when tuned correctly. My earlier aim was 600BHP but now I am increasing it up to some +700BHP. Most of the SR's here in Sweden end at some 500BHP and that engine has a lot to wish for when it comes to its factory internals (as an example, I am no friend of the SR head and its twin lifter cam lobes).

The CA has also things that need improvement. The crank is forged and ok but the pistons doesn't last when reaching +300BHP. The Rods give in at about +400BHP and the oil cooling suck.

So...I did lots of hardware tuning to make a massive improvement on the CA's durability and many other tweaks to get it up in power.

700HP!?!?!?!?!?!

out of a CA!?

How often do you intend on rebuilding it!?

It is not a question about rebuilding. It is all about doing it the right way from the beginning (using high grade components) and keeping a high level of normal service (oils, filters etc).

This is how I rebuilt a Z32 gearbox to fit my car (200sx S13 with ca18det).

The good thing about it is that you can reuse the nice clutch you already invested in for your S13. I have a twin disc OS Giken clutch, bought for my S13 gearbox. Both gearboxes have the same dimensions on the ingoing splined shaft, release bearing, sleave etc. This makes it an absolute fit. The gear ratio is slightly higher. My car had before a top speed of 282km/h at 7800rpm. With the ratio of the Z32 gearbox and new tyres it will make aprox. 305km/h. Hope you like it.

Clutch: Same as S13 (clutch, bearing, release sleave, starter motor, flywheel)

Weight: A bit heavier because of internal dimensions

Length: A bit shorter (reuse the yoke from the Z32 and the rear part from theS13 and make a new, longer prop shaft)

Gear ratio: A bit higher (~5%)

Shift stick: Reuse the one from Z32 or buy a new short shift

Welding in cast aluminium: You need a TIG or go to a welding shop (sand blast the weld area to make it clean and easier to weld)

Z32 original gearbox from a Twin Turbo 1994

img45ca2ea7a58de.jpg

img45ca2eada2b6f.jpg

img45ca2eb353b32.jpg

Disassemble the clutch housing (Z32)

img45ca2df5ccd53.jpg

Parts to remove to disassemble the clutch housing. Not shown are the screws on the outside (remove), attaching the cluth housing to the gearbox.

img45ca2df73b588.jpg

Remove all screws around the cover and carefully lift it off

img45ca2df75f7b4.jpg

Remove both snap rings and the stopper ring

img45ca2df603a9e.jpg

Be careful not to lose any important washers or shims

img45ca2df72cb27.jpg

Important! First remove the screw, spring and ball before removing the complete interlock assembly, the ball might fall into the gearbox.

img45ca2df6b27a7.jpg

Before you disassemble the clutch housing of the S13 gearbox, you have to make a centering device. Use a plexi glass plate (10mm) and drill a 16mm hole in the centre, put the plate over the shaft (snug fit) and carefully drill 4 small holes exactly in the centre of the holes where the gearbox is attached to the motor. Remove the plate and carefully drill the holes just as big to get the screws in

img45ca2df79149e.jpg

Result

img45ca2df7a4d24.jpg

Remove the clutch housing from the ca18det S13 gearbox. It is more or less just to remove the screws on the outside of the clutch housing, remove the cover and one snap ring.

img45ca2df7b56c8.jpg

Remove the snap ring under the cover

img45ca2df5e4457.jpg

Comparision between the both gearboxes. One is useless over 350-400Bhp, the other last well over 1000Bhp and more.

img45ca2df77bcd7.jpg

Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the S13 gearbox ca. 50mm, take it to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 45mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.

img45ca2df64edd1.jpg

Use an angle cutting machine and cut off the flange from the Z32 gearbox ca. 40mm, throw away the flange and take the rest of the clutch housing to a machine shop and have it grinded down to 355mm. Important to get it absolutely flat and equal all around.

img45ca2df6cdd30.jpg

Both parts after grinding, cleaning and reattaching the clutch housing on the Z32 gearbox

img45ca2df79149e.jpg

Put the S13 flange snug to the Z32 clutch housing and attach the centering plate with four screws

img45ca2df554b53.jpg

Side view

img45ca2df71929e.jpg

Top view. Important to align and rotate them like on the picture

If you do not own a TIG-welding machine, you go to the machine shop again and have it carefully welded together, both from the outside and the inside

img483da0680add2.jpg

img45ca2df6664d9.jpg

Reuse the shift stick bracket from the Z32 gearbox. You have to cut out some small triangles from it, bend it to a Z-shape to fit the S13 under body and then weld the cut outs together. (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df704a7b.jpg

The new short shift

img45ca2df7c606e.jpg

A small change of shift stick position compared to the original (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df6a6c29.jpg

A plate to cover the hole at the shift stick (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df678dbb.jpg

A bracket to hold the gearbox in place (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df62dac6.jpg

Aligning the gearbox with the rear axle. Put a steel tube in the gearbox, aim it towards the centre of the rear axle flange and find the final position of the gearbox bracket. (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df61a201.jpg

Side view (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df74bf2f.jpg

Front view (borrowed picture)

img45ca2df76f1b7.jpg

The prop shaft. Mount the Z32 yoke in the gearbox and the original flange on the rear axle. Measure the centre distance between the loops in the yoke and in the rear flange. Use this measure and go to your local prop shaft supplier and have him to make your new prop shaft. The shaft rotate at about 10.000rpm at max speed so it has to be dimensioned for the forces and also balanced.

  • 2 weeks later...

Device to correct the speedometer. Needed because of the different speed signals and gear ratio in the Z32 gearbox. It also handle changed wheel/tyre sizes etc. The sensor signal to the speedometer is handled to show the correct speed on the speedo. It also show the max speed from the latest run by pressing a button.

img4af272e1b4be2.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Today I picked up the new turbo from Logo31-3.gif.

Without doubt they are skilled experts in the world of turbos. Dick has made an excellent job. There is nothing about this SX700S that is standard. Top Class Dick! 1000 cheers!

img4b0ec4783f16c.jpg

img4b0ec4766eeae.jpg

img4b0ec476a59b4.jpg

img4b0ec476cab7b.jpg

img4b0ec476f2c21.jpg

img4b0ec47723bab.jpg

img4b0ec477671d8.jpg

img4b0ec4778c39f.jpg

img4b0ec477b1567.jpg

img4b0ec477d6731.jpg

img4b0ec47818ff7.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...