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  • 3 weeks later...

Bought a large box of oil.

(8 l engine oil) Motul 300V Competition 15W-50 Racing lubricant for racing cars

(5 l gearbox oil) Motul Gear 300 75W-90 Racing gearbox lubricant 100% Synthetic – Ester based

(6 l LSD oil) Fuchs Titan Race Gear 90 LS High Performance Limited Slip Diff Oil (formerly known as Silkolene BOA 90 LS)

(1.5 l brake and clutch fluid) Motul RBF 660 Factory Line race brake fluid

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The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.

img4aec91eb33a18.jpg

Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.

img4caec226a91fb.jpg

Here it has been dismounted.

img4a47ca15eb3f7.jpg

A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.

img4a2d28d7dd300.jpg

In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).

img483c3eb2535f7.jpg

Original stud dismounted.

img4caec96b2766e.jpg

In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.

img4caec8fb38a78.jpg

It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number is 15213-V0711.

img4caec97d55831.jpg

Stud, 15213-V0711, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).

img4caec937bc384.jpg

Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.

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Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.

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Filter relocation kit.

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Yesterday I was informed the new R-tyres are on their way and they should be delivered to me today. The flush fit wheel air valves have also been shipped. Soon time to get it all assembled and balanced. Exciting :P

I have that kind of valve on my other wheels too and they bring a nice touch to it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It turned out very well with the flush valves on the new wheels I use for the R-tyres. Pictures to be posted after next round in the garage. I will have to remember to always keep the air fill adatper in the car from now on.

When the tyres were mounted on to the rims, they had to pump them up to more than 4 Bar of pressure. It sounded like a big cannon in the tyre shop. My poor ears...I wasn't prepared at all... at least not when the first tyre went on.

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Mounted some parts. It will be ok but as shown, there is lots to adjust regarding wheel alignment and I will also adjustthe track both front and rear. At the rear, there is plenty of Camber but still a slight gap between the tyre and the fender. At the front, there is also some space for adjustments. I will decide how much I want to slam the car when the coilovers have settled. The steering angle has improved with the spacers mounted on the inner tie rods.

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  • 1 month later...

The original watercooled oilcooler, mounted on the engine block under the oilfilter, is sometimes creating a problem and has to be removed. It could be a problem with the function, available space etc. In my case the reason is a heavily tuned engine with high boost pressure. This create a very high local temperature rise. Let us call it a local thermal water explosion. This local temperature rise create a high local pressure in the cooling system and this could make the original oilcooler crack and cause a water/oil leak.

There are some ways to solve this problem, this is how I chose to do it:

Original oilcooler is hidden under the intake manifold and behind the alternator.

img4aec91eb33a18.jpg

Original oilcooler. It is mounted on the block with 4 bolts.

img4caec226a91fb.jpg

Here it has been dismounted.

img4a47ca15eb3f7.jpg

A close up to show how it looks behind the oilcooler. It is important to remove all trace of old gaskets and paint. The mating surface must be smooth and clean since this is the surface where the oilfilter/sandwich plate is sealing snug and tight.

img4a2d28d7dd300.jpg

In the centre you can spot the original stud. This is to be dismantled (twist it out like a screw).

img483c3eb2535f7.jpg

Original stud dismounted.

img4caec96b2766e.jpg

In Nissan FAST software, part 15213P is found. This part is only used on engines without an original oilcooler mounted on the engine block.

img4caec8fb38a78.jpg

It is named "Stud, oil filter" and Nissans part number according to Nissan is 15213-W040A. I have ordered one and will test it to be 100% sure it is the correct part.

The valve I will mount in the filter holder.

img4cefaadb5ea62.jpg

Stud, 15213-W040A, mounted in the block (the four bolts and the gasket shall be removed).

img4caec937bc384.jpg

Now you can select if you would like to use only a filter, an external oilcooler, a filter relocation kit or a combination with all of them.

I use them all.

Oilcooler thermo plate.

img4caec8520bb7a.jpg

Mounting an oilcooler and a thermo plate.

img4caec90e2845d.jpg

Filter relocation kit.

img4caec86ae2d9c.jpg

Some OEM-parts I picked up today:

Holder for the license plate lights.

img4cefab2bed307.jpg

Fasteners and washers for the camshaft brackets (total 24pcs of each).

img4cefaac807827.jpg

Over pressure valve and oil filter stud to remove the OEM oilcooler.

img4cefaadb5ea62.jpg

Fasteners, washers and nuts for the outgoing drive shafts on the diff flanges (total 12pcs of each).

img4cefab02efa42.jpg

Fasteners, washers and nuts for the prop shaft on the ingoing flange on the diff (total 12pcs of each).

img4cefab1672de3.jpg

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    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
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    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
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