Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I love the look of the r34 GTT and GTR, but the GTR is out of my price range. I also really want the rb26dett and AWD, so what i want to know is, how hard would it be to convert a GTT to rb26dett and AWD? Roughly how much would it cost, and what is involved (besides the obvious)? Is it technically feasible to do, or should i just settle for an r33 GTR?

By the time you cover the cost of the halfcut, labor, and time you spend on the conversion / time you could wait and save money - the R34 GTR would be affordable anyway.

Or settle for an AWD with 25, and do some work. Plenty of avenue's for power, ie building an RB30DETT.

This general question has been covered so many times it's not funny. The conversion is not simply a matter of throwing a RB26 engine and gearbox into a chassis. There is a whole bunch of electronics and hydraulics that all work together to make it work.

The general consensus is that it is far cheaper - and much less anguish - to just go and buy the GT-R. Then again, you could start with a AWD RB25DE version, and drop the RB26 in. And add decent brakes. And decent suspension. And ...

Check the build ups pages, someone in there is doing it.

Depending on your skill level is possible "relatively" cheap.

But as said before, nothing wrong with the RB25.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...