Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, ive done my research and ive decided tht nistune is the best way to go for my r33 and the power figues i hav, this way i can still keep all the safety features. so im going with a z32 ecu.

i know it has to b out of a 300zx between 89-95 model, and i know the wires i hav to change. seems easier then it was hooking up my safc2.

the onli question i have is, my car is manual, does that mean the z32 ecu i get has to b a manual, i think i was told it doesnt matter, but can anyone clear this up for my as ive found a cheap auto one :( and i plan to wire it up myself to save some cash. my understanding is if i run the z32 afm with it, ti will run rich, but i will b able to drive it to my tuner

thanks

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290107-z32-ecu-manual-or-auto/
Share on other sites

Is the tuner going to install the Nistune daughterboard, or will you be driving there with it already installed? In my opinion it's dangerous to drive it to the tuner, unless you've set in the Nistune software to factor into the Z32 AFM. I'm pretty sure it's the other way around, the Z32 AFM without the AFM correction, the engine will run super lean.

Don't hold me to it, but I'm fairly sure auto/manual doesn't matter as you'll be loading the R33 GTS-T basemap into it anyway.

hmm ill have to double check with him, he will be installing the nistune board, but he said its ok aslong as i have both z32 ecu and afm fitted, if i have the stock afm it will lean out.

thanks

Are you sure your tuner is recommending driving to his shop with a Z32 ecu that has a stock basemap to run a V6 of 2l/3l (VG20 or VG30, I don't know 300zx's at all) with a inline 6 2.5l (rb25det)?

take the ecu to the tuner and get him to put the nistune board in it with the basemap required to run an rb25 on a z32 ecu. then take the ecu home and install it.

then you can drive it to him to be tuned.

cheers

as long as you have the z32 afm installed, i'd say it should be fine to drive it to the tuners even with the stock z32 map on it. the reason being that if you are cruising along the o2 sensor is going to be controlling the AFRs to a large extent. the injectors on the z32 are the same size, and for a given amount of air going into the engine the ecu should be putting in the same amount of fuel. it would just be that the rb25 isn't going to use as much of the higher load area of the map due to the lower capacity of the engine.

also i have heard of people on other forums who have been running an untuned z32 ecu in a skyline for a few months with no issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...