Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK....after much frustration, I got the top half off...now, that f**king lower half...namely that 7mm bolt, on the lower row, close to the firewall (so, from the firewall in, its the second bolt, or the first bolt on the bottom row)....

I've tried many naughty yoga positions with the socket, and couldn't quiet get it, I even tried from out near the strut tower, using 3x extension bars...still not luck....should I be using a ring set or is there a trick to this ? What angle am I supposed to break my wrist to get into

Once its off, massive clean and going black to match the upper half of the manifold, looks sexy-as, I'll post a pic....once its done, but need help first :3some:

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290600-removing-intake-manifold/
Share on other sites

Uni joints are your friend. Perfect for undoing nuts and bolts around corners.

Ive pulled off my manifold 4 times now, but I kept the two halfs together every single time. It also helps if you have someone under the car guiding the socket or spanner onto the bolt.

You've got some unusual skills mate :thumbsup:

Cheers, bought myself another uni joint this arvo (hopefully wont lose this one), and got it off, no probs - didnt think to try one because I figured they're too big.

The engine bay is looking very naughty now - have to trace and cut some gaskets, replace the brake booster, paint the firewall, and slap it all back together, and then expect some masturbation material.

OK, took a very quick photo tonight.

Im also using my engine bay as storage, same as the interior so dont mind all the other shit in the photo.

It looked sexier in my head, think it looks too much like an RB25 copy-cat, but eh, can always sand back and respray.

Opinions ??

post-62975-1254926751_thumb.jpg

Yeah thats what I reckon. I am painting the engine bay black though...a matt black, not a gloss black, all the shit in the photo has an undercoat of a dark grey kind of finish..it looks black for now but will probably show up with a dark background - see what happens. I'm not keen on having an engine bay full of colors, bling and a rainbow...it looks like shit and all the more reason to expect a canary yellow to finish the color wheel.

  • 4 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...