Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

advancing the timing may have some benefit. if you advance the timing you will pick up power, however you don't want it to be pinging as that will lead to all sorts of trouble. i would start by checking the timing and making sure it is at least where it should be (isn't retarded below stock)

retarding the timing will give you no gain in performance at all. it will decrease performance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862023
Share on other sites

I would hardly call that almost standard. About the only thing on the outside of the engine you haven't changed is the exhaust manifold... (ok and the airflow meter)

Although it *can* be done with a stopwatch and a good ear for detonation, you probably aren't good enough to do that or you wouldn't have asked, I would take it to a dyno shop and get it done (along with whatever other tuning/expermenting you might need doing). Standard price appears to be $100-120 an hour, and for that you should be able to adjust fuel pressure, ignition timing, and cam timing (if you have adjustable gears) to get it spot on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862029
Share on other sites

i did have the timing advanced a little bit and it seemd that i couldnt boost my turbo over 10psi with the car shuddering at about 4500rpm even when hot!

do u guys have any idea if the timing would effect this or do i have another problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862736
Share on other sites

I would hardly call that almost standard. About the only thing on the outside of the engine you haven't changed is the exhaust manifold... (ok and the airflow meter)

Although it *can* be done with a stopwatch and a good ear for detonation, you probably aren't good enough to do that or you wouldn't have asked, I would take it to a dyno shop and get it done (along with whatever other tuning/expermenting you might need doing). Standard price appears to be $100-120 an hour, and for that you should be able to adjust fuel pressure, ignition timing, and cam timing (if you have adjustable gears) to get it spot on.

i would. bov isn't a performance mod. plugs are maintainence, pod isn't really much of mod either. so he has an exhaust, fmic and slightly bigger turbo. not exactly crazy mods.

and it isn't hard to adjust the timing safely. or at least put a timing light on it to see if it is at least set to the stock timing.

i did have the timing advanced a little bit and it seemd that i couldnt boost my turbo over 10psi with the car shuddering at about 4500rpm even when hot!

do u guys have any idea if the timing would effect this or do i have another problem?

the issue you are having could be that the car is leaning out or the coilpacks or ignitor aren't performing as well as they should, but i wouldn't put it down to the advanced timing. could also be that you are running the stock ecu and with the bigger turbo at that sort of boost level it isn't liking it too much. generally you can have the timing advanced to a point where it will ping it's arse off and it will still make decent power. does do the engine any good, but it does make you lose power the moment it starts pinging. but the problem only appears as you up the boost which makes me think it's either an issue with the ignition system not coping or a fuel issue. you could stick it on a dyno and get them to do a run and check the AFR's and see how they are to rule out the fuel side of things. to check the ignition side of things if you have a mate with coil packs in good condition then try putting them on and see what it does.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4862795
Share on other sites

I would hardly call that almost standard. About the only thing on the outside of the engine you haven't changed is the exhaust manifold... (ok and the airflow meter)

Although it *can* be done with a stopwatch and a good ear for detonation, you probably aren't good enough to do that or you wouldn't have asked, I would take it to a dyno shop and get it done (along with whatever other tuning/expermenting you might need doing). Standard price appears to be $100-120 an hour, and for that you should be able to adjust fuel pressure, ignition timing, and cam timing (if you have adjustable gears) to get it spot on.

What is the stopwatch for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4863895
Share on other sites

adjusting fuel pressure on a stock car, with a stock ECU with a map that already runs ridiculously rich? ehh..

If you're tight and want some cheap power, go get a SAFC, borrow a mate's wideband and hire a dyno, pull a few runs on 3rd/4th gear and adjust/bend/tweak the A/F..

SAFC only bends the Air Flow Meter signal, but works quite well on a car that has minimal mods..

I had a RB20DET with a remap, and a SAFC to neaten up the A/F, works good for small mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864222
Share on other sites

stopwatch is to measure the performance gain. The ass dyno can easily be confused by lower bottom end torque feeling like a top end gain. A stopwatch makes sure that you are actually improving things.

And adjusting the fuel pressure does not neccessarily mean raising it. Lowering it is classed as an adjustment as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864366
Share on other sites

i would. bov isn't a performance mod. plugs are maintainence, pod isn't really much of mod either. so he has an exhaust, fmic and slightly bigger turbo. not exactly crazy mods.

and it isn't hard to adjust the timing safely. or at least put a timing light on it to see if it is at least set to the stock timing.

the issue you are having could be that the car is leaning out or the coilpacks or ignitor aren't performing as well as they should, but i wouldn't put it down to the advanced timing. could also be that you are running the stock ecu and with the bigger turbo at that sort of boost level it isn't liking it too much. generally you can have the timing advanced to a point where it will ping it's arse off and it will still make decent power. does do the engine any good, but it does make you lose power the moment it starts pinging. but the problem only appears as you up the boost which makes me think it's either an issue with the ignition system not coping or a fuel issue. you could stick it on a dyno and get them to do a run and check the AFR's and see how they are to rule out the fuel side of things. to check the ignition side of things if you have a mate with coil packs in good condition then try putting them on and see what it does.

Sorry to jump in. i just read the above... So coilpacks that may not necessarily be causing any major stutters or missing, could still contribute significantly to detonation????

my 33 hates any increase in timing (pings its head of with minimal boost on stock turbo). Pulled timing back and ran 15 psi down it and no ping.... Doesnt miss or run lean though.... its got me f**ked...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864904
Share on other sites

the issue with advancing the timing is, the way you are doing it, it affects the whole tune

your engine can deal with more timing when its coming on boost and off boost

and this is typically where good gains can be had, but once its on full load, it cant take too much more

so if you backdial the cas to advance the timing it will shift the entire map, which means detonation city on max load

so you need either

1) a remap of your current tune

2) a copgyback device to advance the timing in certain areas

3) a standalone to tune as you like

with the right experience and skill and time you can make the car drive quiet differently

i was able to dial in +12 deg ignition timing in some areas on my map with my powerfc and some on-road tuning

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4864946
Share on other sites

the issue with advancing the timing is, the way you are doing it, it affects the whole tune

your engine can deal with more timing when its coming on boost and off boost

and this is typically where good gains can be had, but once its on full load, it cant take too much more

so if you backdial the cas to advance the timing it will shift the entire map, which means detonation city on max load

so you need either

1) a remap of your current tune

2) a copgyback device to advance the timing in certain areas

3) a standalone to tune as you like

with the right experience and skill and time you can make the car drive quiet differently

i was able to dial in +12 deg ignition timing in some areas on my map with my powerfc and some on-road tuning

sorry mate i wasnt clear. Ive left this in the hands of tuners with whom i closely watched the process. Cars now got z32 ecu NISTUNE etc etc. The end result wasnt exactly what id expected.

200 rwkw on 14+ psi no ping on a 30 deg (with fmic, exhaust, filter etc) day with timing retarded. Apparently barely even standard. Id had that figure running 12psi, and generally much more responsive too, but under full load yeah it was pinging. Ive seen others do much better. its disappointing.. There must be an actual reason why without fobbing it off saying 'its a dead motor'... Coils and spark maybe. Made 160kw with no mods at all which was pretty healthy....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4865037
Share on other sites

Easy to make a stopwatch reliable (maybe not accurate, but repeatable, which is all you are after for comparison), just practise.

The easiest way to make the car repeatable is to not time the launch. Ie go from idle to redline in second gear, but only time from 2000-6500 (assuming a 7000rpm redline). That way you don't have the effect of launching, and you know you are at full throttle the entire time (because there is no guessing as to the exact time in the run the throtte was floored and then lifted again).

You are also highly unikely to feel a gain in the 0.1 second region, which a stopwatch will reliably show.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4866133
Share on other sites

200 rwkw on 14+ psi no ping on a 30 deg (with fmic, exhaust, filter etc) day with timing retarded. Apparently barely even standard. Id had that figure running 12psi, and generally much more responsive too, but under full load yeah it was pinging. Ive seen others do much better. its disappointing.. There must be an actual reason why without fobbing it off saying 'its a dead motor'... Coils and spark maybe. Made 160kw with no mods at all which was pretty healthy....

200rwkw is healthy for a standard turbo 25, usually anymore than that is just from happy dynos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290614-timing/#findComment-4867353
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...