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those clips are from the sliding hub that selects gears. 3rd and 4th are f**ked. box has to come out, remove the bell housing, remove the input shaft from the mainshaft and you will find that the sliding hub outside part will just fall off

On A 25 box, you can not get the input shaft off with out totaly stripping the box IE, removing reverse gear and overdrive. Once thaey are removed, the main shaft and cluster has to be pushed out of the centre plate at the same time. Then input shaft and 4th synchro will come away from the main shaft. You then need to remove a C clip on the main shaft to allow you to remove the 3rd and 4th synchro hub.

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On A 25 box, you can not get the input shaft off with out totaly stripping the box IE, removing reverse gear and overdrive. Once thaey are removed, the main shaft and cluster has to be pushed out of the centre plate at the same time. Then input shaft and 4th synchro will come away from the main shaft. You then need to remove a C clip on the main shaft to allow you to remove the 3rd and 4th synchro hub.

so can we replace this clip and fix this issue? what is the part number for this clip?

more info needed :P

those clips are from the sliding hub that selects gears. 3rd and 4th are f**ked. box has to come out, remove the bell housing, remove the input shaft from the mainshaft and you will find that the sliding hub outside part will just fall off

Yep thats what Dave just confirmed... mine went in my standard box ages ago!!

Detent clip or something like that... the circled item in the nissan fast diagram is the right part you would need to get Dave has just said (32608+B) :banana:

i called nissan, they quoted me on 3 things for the 4th gear syncro

Baulk ring 4th $157.60

Syncroniser

Hub + keys $249.85

Sleeve $140.00

Front main shaft bearing $177

He also said i need this other bush or bearing or sumthing if im doing the front main shaft bearing for $56.83

i also called up a tranny guy i know and he told me he can swap the 4th gear syncro over relatively easily coz its apart of the input shaft, told me to just strip it down the gearset and bring it down and he will tell me exactly wats wrong, he said it could even be a worn bearing thats causing the syncro to move about etc

i hope this helps sumbody, i think ill just end up changing that 4th syncro, coz the rest of my box is perfect

Okay i sent a PM to turboedsloth because he seemed like he knew what the problem was from his post.

Not only did he give me the info i needed but he gave me pictures and instructions on how to strip the box.

Very nice guy indeed! So thankyou very much turboedsloth!!!

I have converted the pictures and will post them up now.

Now all we need is the part number for the clip / clips and we can start repairing our box's!!!!

Took me a while to copy all the files from the doc file to jpg files and add the info in the next post but its good to get this info on SAU and out there so this issue can be repaired by anyone in the future.

So thanks again Turbodsloth you are a champion!!!! (everyone needs to thank him if this has helped you)

Now all we need to do is confirm the part number. Maybe Dave can confirm this for us.

Selector Hub Clip Instructions (Thanks to turboedsloth)

1.Box on the Bench

post-1240-1255983055_thumb.jpg

2: 2. Remove electrical connectors, speedo, case bolts and selector cover. There is a spring under the cover once you pull it off

post-1240-1255983067_thumb.jpg

3. Spring under selector cover in position, knock out selector pin

post-1240-1255983076_thumb.jpg

4. Remove front cover in bell housing and remove input shaft bearing ring and also very top circlip and spacer looking thing

post-1240-1255983086_thumb.jpg

5. Remove selector rod intent and spring, there is a ball behind it as pictured, it will more than likely fall into the case

post-1240-1255983095_thumb.jpg

6. Split the cases and your left with something like this. Remove the breather hose aswell

post-1240-1255983107_thumb.jpg

7. remove bolt, then that selector shaft can be removed

post-1240-1255983116_thumb.jpg

8. Knock pin through, then main selector rod can be removed aswell as forks

post-1240-1255983126_thumb.jpg

9. knock pin through and remove bolt then pull selector and rod out

post-1240-1255983139_thumb.jpg

post-1240-1255983153_thumb.jpg

10. Remove circlip, retainer, split washer under retainer and bearing, place inline on bench

post-1240-1255983160_thumb.jpg

11. Remove cluster circlip and bearing

post-1240-1255983169_thumb.jpg

12. Remove reverse idler gear and brass washers, place together on bench

post-1240-1255983175_thumb.jpg

13. Use puller or hammer an drift (don’t be rough or it’ll break) and remove hub and gear

post-1240-1255983184_thumb.jpg

14. Use puller to remove 5th gear on cluster

post-1240-1255983194_thumb.jpg

15. Remove retaining plate

post-1240-1255983207_thumb.jpg

16. Use puller to remove bearing race, speedo gear and 5th gear

post-1240-1255983215_thumb.jpg

17. Once the gears are removed using a rubber mallet or copper hammer remove mainshaft and cluster out of centre plate. This will make both shafts fall out

post-1240-1255983224_thumb.jpg

18. Once the shafts are out you can get to 3rd and 4th gear selector hub where those clips you found in your oil originated from.

When you come to put the unit back together make sure there is a tiny bit of clearance between the selector rings and gears and also put a drop of ATF oil or thin gear oil on the surfaces.

Then its just a matter of following these photos on reverse. I like to put locktite on the retaining plate bolts and the selector rod bolt just in case.

post-1240-1255983231_thumb.jpg

Selector Hub Clip Instructions (Thanks to turboedsloth)

1.Box on the Bench

post-1240-1255983055_thumb.jpg

2: 2. Remove electrical connectors, speedo, case bolts and selector cover. There is a spring under the cover once you pull it off

post-1240-1255983067_thumb.jpg

3. Spring under selector cover in position, knock out selector pin

post-1240-1255983076_thumb.jpg

4. Remove front cover in bell housing and remove input shaft bearing ring and also very top circlip and spacer looking thing

post-1240-1255983086_thumb.jpg

5. Remove selector rod intent and spring, there is a ball behind it as pictured, it will more than likely fall into the case

post-1240-1255983095_thumb.jpg

6. Split the cases and your left with something like this. Remove the breather hose aswell

post-1240-1255983107_thumb.jpg

7. remove bolt, then that selector shaft can be removed

post-1240-1255983116_thumb.jpg

8. Knock pin through, then main selector rod can be removed aswell as forks

post-1240-1255983126_thumb.jpg

9. knock pin through and remove bolt then pull selector and rod out

post-1240-1255983139_thumb.jpg

post-1240-1255983153_thumb.jpg

10. Remove circlip, retainer, split washer under retainer and bearing, place inline on bench

post-1240-1255983160_thumb.jpg

11. Remove cluster circlip and bearing

post-1240-1255983169_thumb.jpg

12. Remove reverse idler gear and brass washers, place together on bench

post-1240-1255983175_thumb.jpg

13. Use puller or hammer an drift (don’t be rough or it’ll break) and remove hub and gear

post-1240-1255983184_thumb.jpg

14. Use puller to remove 5th gear on cluster

post-1240-1255983194_thumb.jpg

15. Remove retaining plate

post-1240-1255983207_thumb.jpg

16. Use puller to remove bearing race, speedo gear and 5th gear

post-1240-1255983215_thumb.jpg

17. Once the gears are removed using a rubber mallet or copper hammer remove mainshaft and cluster out of centre plate. This will make both shafts fall out

post-1240-1255983224_thumb.jpg

18. Once the shafts are out you can get to 3rd and 4th gear selector hub where those clips you found in your oil originated from.

When you come to put the unit back together make sure there is a tiny bit of clearance between the selector rings and gears and also put a drop of ATF oil or thin gear oil on the surfaces.

Then its just a matter of following these photos on reverse. I like to put locktite on the retaining plate bolts and the selector rod bolt just in case.

post-1240-1255983231_thumb.jpg

This may be of some use

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

top work guys!

quick question though; is much further work needed to actually change the 4th gear syncro along with these clips ???

and sorry if i misssed it but do you guys have any part numbers yet for those clips?

cheers :blush:

once you've gotten it all apart and the input shaft has fallen off the front you'll find a c clip on the mainshaft, remove this and the whole selector hub should either fall off or it may need a tiny bit of pressure behind it to slide it off. Then its only a matter of marking the hub to make sure the slider is put back on the same way, remove the old clips, install new ones then put it all back together in the reverse of the instructions.

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