Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

n1 was the sneaky race homologated model that nissan built on top of r32 vspec 1 and vspec 2.

it was basically the same except for larger turbos (really crap by modern standards, but a fair bit bigger than the base model had). few other changes like the body kit (nostrils in the bonnet, side skirts and rear lip under the spoiler), no rear wiper, no air con, no abs.

33 and 34 also had n1 and they got progressively sneakier

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290894-n1/#findComment-4865281
Share on other sites

Yep, In that video the N1 car is from the N1 racing series that Japan runs. It's pretty much a production car series, hence why Nissan built teh N1 spec road cars.

The actual name of the series i believe was N1 Super Taikyu.

No idea if the regs are still production based as they were in the time of the 32, but here's a link to teh current series.

some stunning cars!!

http://www.so-net.ne.jp/s-taikyu/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290894-n1/#findComment-4865896
Share on other sites

Also the sound system, boot carpet, and the use of light-weight headlights were used to save weight.

The N1's only came in a thin layer of Crystal White paint, again to save weight.

I assume the N1 turbo's ran higher boost (1 Bar..?) then the standard +0.7 Bar...

Developed by Nismo for Group A and Group N Motorsport.

Nismo balanced the crankshaft to a higher specification than stock.

The engine also received improved water channels within the engine block.

The top piston rings were also upgraded to 1.2 mm.

Upgraded N1 Camshafts and Turbochargers (Garrett T25) with steel wheels then ceramic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290894-n1/#findComment-4866283
Share on other sites

cool,

so an original n1 spec vehicle would be quite a rare find then...

thanks for the info.

:)

An approx build of 228 N1 R32 GTR's were produced, from 19th of July 1991.

So far I know a few ppl on SAU are fortunate to have N1 R32 GTR's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290894-n1/#findComment-4868630
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...