Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

shakedown today at mallala... first time out and i had all sorts of cutting out issues... would just cut out big time in the midrange when on the throttle.. was hell weird. it wasnt until Decs from Garage 7 came along for a passenger ride and said its boost cutting. the target boost is set to 18 psi with a cut out at 22 psi to protect the engine from overboost (plus the map sensor only reads to 22psi so cant set higher) for some reason on the dyno it never spiked but on the track with some hard throttle mashing it spiked to 22psi and cut. so we backed the target boost back a few psi and problem solved.. now peaks at 18psi and doesnt overboost.

once that was sorted have it some hard laps and was pretty happy with the overall performance.. its a little bit lazier coming onto boost but once it is it just pulls hard. didnt bother going for lap times as i was running shit tyres and drift set up. was all over the shop with shitty half worn sunnys on the back lol.

Good to meet you mate sorry I didn't get to take you for laps. Had issues then Decs from garage 7 rocked up and got stuck into data logging it. Found boost was spiking and cutting rpm.

that's cool Simon there's always next time, car sounds great with new setup!!! All the best for Tassie :thumbsup:

Quick question with the dyno graph simon, with the rb25 head and stock cam you made same power on 98 and more torque than you are now with 26 head and running E85. I know your making less torque because of the manifold but I thought you should have see a max kw jump from the e85 and 26 head.

nah what happened was when we first tuned it with BP98 and stock cams it was tuned on the dyno with no temp correction turned on. cause there was no temp probe so the dyno software automatically assumes 100 degrees ambient air temps. hence the inflated power and torque figures.

it means that the very first tune that we did on the first set up was out of wack yes... then the owner of the dyno (not my tuner, different person) purchased a temp sensor for the dyno so we were able to tune correctly from then on.

anyway.. bottom line is, yes its down on power but once cams and cam gears are installed it should bump it back up

wow what an insane read from 1 to 41 tonight, awesome build man, im also in the process of building my 32, will hopefully be going too the same depth of mods as you on mine, might see you on the track!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...