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I'm really digging the radiator set up... hope it works well for you.

Most people can't appreciate the time and skill it takes to produce neat wiring solutions. Just make sure you are using the correct style of deutsch plug crimps for the pins and sockets.

It's comming along gear guns.

PS... I had my first proper day out sliding (Baskervill) last weekend.. was a blast! I can see how it becomes a destructive addiction.

That's beautiful... Your wiring is just outstanding, really makes me want to strip my car and do everything custom. Because having your indicators on a switch panel in a street car is completely necessary :P

Seriously though, I'm loving this build. I just tend to just sit on the side lines and applaud quietly.

got less then a week to finish this thing for Round 1 ADGP and its going to be an untested car/set up :( oh well see how it goes.

anyway heres todays efforts... im wrecked. ive spent all my time either at work or working on the car, sleep is rare.

mock up of fuse/relay panel.. then a power up to test all circuits.. passed with flying colours!

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made up swirl/fill pot for the rad, this is the highest point in cooling system,

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sealed off the floor holes

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epic switch panel! LEDs are green and have bright/dim circuit, interior light, etc heaps of neat touches

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Nice work, I love it!

.... just one thing... you might need to re-orientate the ewp. the way you have it, there will be an air pocket trapped on the back of the impeller, causing it to cavitation and create more air bubbles.

today we had the rad back out cause we found a leak in one of the end tanks. put it all back in and then bled it up. we vacuum filled it and that worked mint. in total it took an hour to fill and bleed and took 20L of coolant. we ran the EWP constantly while it was full and kept adding water in the funnel until no more air bubbles came out. EWP works mint and no cavitation was heard at all. the EWP is mounted lower then the bleed point.

fuel system all done. hard lines from boot to fire wall with bulkhead fittings then braided line in engine bay to connect it all. clean. effective and out of harms way. nothing at all to get damaged on ripple strips etc.

just means the cabin is getting awfully full haha

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the red things are buttons to scroll through the dash since there are 4 pages. you can also use them to change brightness of dash and various other simple functions.

the leb spec shift light can be set up to come up for any warning light. EG oil press, too hot etc.

got it running last night... after a massive fuel leak. turns out the tank had a hole in it. So swapped a tank out of a 33 4 door and bolted that in... no 5 min job but had to be done. then we put fuel back in it and started the steps to get it running. lots of setting up and calibrating of sensors etc. then it fired straight up and settled into a dead smooth idle.

warmed it up to 80 degrees using the pump on 30% flow, then we turned the fan on 100% and it dropped down to 55 degrees lol.

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