Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Going to chuck my car up for sale as I don't really get to use it these days. I have only owned this car for a year and have had it registered since February this year (this was new rego and the car went through the VicRoads inspection).

I am looking for $13,500 with the Final Konnexion kit or $13,000 with out and made it negotiable however I'm not going to sway too much from the set price so please refrain from low balling :mrt:

Mods:

EXTERIOR:

CA31 Chassis - July 1989 Build

Manual conversion

Final Konnexion Body Kit - Genuine Kit - Only kit of its kind in Australia! - Not currently fitted

M-Sports 30mm Flared & Vented Front Fenders - Genuine

Rear Guards Flared by 20mm

Full Respray in factory Diamond Black

Factory Sunroof

Late Model Tail Lights

Kaixon 6000k HID Headlight Kit

Legal Tint with Front Banner

Notes:

Bodykit was drifted by the guy I bought it off and is in good condition except for the rear passenger skirt but is an easy fix, just needs some glassing.

Drivers door has a scratch from when the front bar came off.

Small blemishes but otherwise excellent condition.

ENGINE:

RB20DET - Recently changed over after Bee*R limited destroyed a piston (FYI - Bee*R limted was not refitted :) )

HKS GT2835 Ball Bearing Turbo Kit (highflowed) ONLY 2500km since rebuild! (Went bang with old motor)

HKS Tuned Length Stainless Highmount Manifold

HKS 50mm Race Gate (1 Bar spring installed, other springs come with it)

Xtreme Chrome Moly 5.5kg Flywheel

Xtreme 9 Puck 25% Over Standard Clutch

SplitFire Coil Pack Kit

R32 GTR Coilpack Loom

Braided Lines where necessary, Fire Retardant Shields on All other Lines

3" Dump Pipe w/ Heatwrap

3" Turbo Back Exhaust.

East Bear GTR Cooler Kit & Piping

Custom Stainless Intake Cross Pipe (By C-red Tuning)

R33 GTR VSpec Intercooler (painted black)

Trust 10 Row Oil Cooler w/ Braided Lines & Spin on Adaptor (painted black)

Bosch O40 Fuel Pump with Source Power direct from Battery

New rocker cover gasket (2000ks old)

Nissan Steel Exhaust Header Gasket w/ new Nissan Studs and Brass Nuts

Quality Blue Silicon Used on all joins and bends

Silicon Vacuum Hoses

Silicon Radiator Hoses

Razor Grounding Kit

Oil Catch Can

Retuned Standard ECU - Socketed ROM (in Japan)

Had car dynoed recently and made 192rwkw on stock boost. Needs about 1.2bar to make serious power.

DRIVETRAIN:

2-Way Mechanical Diff (Nice and quiet)

Gearbox Had 6 Bearings Replaced (Synchros are crunchy which 'may' be caused by slave cylinders not opening fully)

R32 Half Shafts installed

HPI Braided Clutch Line

Brand New Speedo Cable

UNDERNEATH:

Tein HA Coilovers (Purchased brand new in 04, 35,000km old now with no leaks or clunks)

Tein Castor Rods

Castor Rod Mount Brace

Cusco Front Strut Brace

Adjustable Traction Rods in Rear

Adjustable Upper Arms in Rear

HICAS Lock Back

Drift Pineapples on Rear Cradle

Work Emotion Kai 17 x 9 +17 all round

Brand new Falken 452 on the front and brand new tires on rear (215's all round)

Full 5 Stud Conversion, R32 Rear & Custom Billet Front Hubs

New rotors and pads all round (2000 ks old)

20mm 5 Stud Bolt on Hub Centric Spacers on Front

Z32 4 Pot Brakes & R32 2 Pot Rears in Red (replaced Rear Brake Lines)

S14 Steering Rack & Custom Power Steering Lines

INTERIOR:

Sexual dash mat (extremely rare!)

HKS EVC3 Boost Controller

Greddy Boost Guage

Nardi Turino Steering Wheel

Will come with standard drivers seat (NOT Zeta as pictured)

Stock S13 (Passenger)

Razo Gearknob

Pioneer MP3 Head Unit

Pioneer 6" Splits

That's the gist of it I think. Only been drifted a few times and has heaps of potential to make big power (est at around 250 rwkw with a tune and the parts I haven't put on yet)

Car is fully complied and VIN plate fitted. Currently has 6 months rego so will be a lovely slider/sleeper for anyone who is keen.

I can be contacted on 0412 033 449 for interested buyers.

PICS:

Before new rims and lowering -

P6210253small.jpg

P9040283small.jpg

P9040284small.jpg

After new rims and more low (current state) -

P9260355small.jpg

P9260356.JPG

P9260358small.jpg

P9260361small.jpg

P9260362small.jpg

P3140026small.jpg

Edited by konect
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291106-nissan-cefiro-4-door-love/
Share on other sites

no rear bar?

whats with the tape on the left tail-light?

Lol check my posts for the rear bar story, having some serious issues getting one in Vic :P

Tape on the left light covers a little hole in it. Been on there since I bought it and does the job well!

Hey Rory,

Just after cash atm :ermm:

************************

Also, car is now located in Diamond Creek (NE Melb suburbs)

Edited by konect
Lol check my posts for the rear bar story, having some serious issues getting one in Vic :P

Tape on the left light covers a little hole in it. Been on there since I bought it and does the job well!

fair enough, it looks nice

Interior pics?

would r33 front seats fit?

fair enough, it looks nice

Interior pics?

would r33 front seats fit?

I didn't post interior pics because it has the wrong seats in it still. I'm going to swap them out this weekend hopefully and then take some pics :)

R33 seats will bolt in 3/4 bolts but you have to adjust the 4th one. Currently it has an S13 passenger seat which is bolted in but needs the 4th one modded.

I didn't post interior pics because it has the wrong seats in it still. I'm going to swap them out this weekend hopefully and then take some pics :)

R33 seats will bolt in 3/4 bolts but you have to adjust the 4th one. Currently it has an S13 passenger seat which is bolted in but needs the 4th one modded.

fair enough, i'm interested i just need to sort out a loan,

i have r33 front seats thats why i was wondering, couldn't i just put them on like cefiro rails?

fair enough, i'm interested i just need to sort out a loan,

i have r33 front seats thats why i was wondering, couldn't i just put them on like cefiro rails?

Ah no worries, let me know how it goes.

You probly could wog it up to go on ceffy rails but would be easier to mod the 4th bolt as you just have to cut a bit off and weld a loop on because the end of the bracket covers half the hole so couldn't drill it. That will make no sense unless you actually see it lol

Edited by konect
Ah no worries, let me know how it goes.

You probly could wog it up to go on ceffy rails but would be easier to mod the 4th bolt as you just have to cut a bit off and weld a loop on because the end of the bracket covers half the hole so couldn't drill it. That will make no sense unless you actually see it lol

haha your right there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...