Jump to content
SAU Community

Water/meth Injection


Recommended Posts

Hi guys need a little help.

I'm about to install a WMI kit on my RB26 and would like to know from those who have done it, and i guess also from those who have good reasoning, where is the bestest location for the nozzle???

Its basically the stock piping with the oem recirculating valves, but i would like to place the nozzle probably mid way in the original rubber hose which is about 4" away from the intake chamber, but i am concerned that this might be too close for even distribution across cylinders.

My concern is that i want to get at least water/meth as possible in the intake piping so when the bovs open, there would be a minimal amount of water/meth being blown back into the compressor hence no damage to the wheels.

My other option would be on the pipe that exits the cooler before the bovs,but again there would more spray back into the compressors.

Your thoughts.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drill and tap into the alloy pipe approx. 50-100mm before the throttle body. My instructions say as close as possible to the TB, but I put it back to 75mm to allow a bit better swirl mix before it goes to the cylinders. Works for a Gtst anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

both of you guys have rb25 (single throttle body) so its abit easier on placement choice, rb26 = itb(6)

smell how were you going to place it into the rubber pipe? make/buy an hard inlet pipe with a fitting?

Would it damage the compressor blades? it would circulate back into the inlet pipes of the turbo and turn into vapour?

I've ordered a kit from the states and was thinking of installing it into the pipe few inches past the exit of the intercooler in the inner guard, or just before the plenum intake, the pipe in the engine bay but I have made all my piping out of alloy, so installing will just require a bung welded in.

how many nozzles did you get aswell? could place them in multiple positions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see we are in the same boat!!!

The water can cause damage to the compressor blades over time thats why most manufactures do not recommend u put the nozzle before the compressor.

I am only going to use one nozzle but there are guys here that have used two, usually one before the cooler to aid with the cooler efficiency and one after.The problem with this though is water can puddle in the cooler,.... but again i can only go on what i have heard.... or read.

Come on guys, what do u recommend for the 26 ????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nozzle before the cooler is stupid. U want to keep the air hot before the intercooler so the intercooler actually has something to do. The hotter the air, the more heat the intercooler can remove. In theory, just after the intercooler is best but the insides of the piping get droplets of water everywhere. In practice, the best place is about 100mm before the beginning of the plenum (where the throttle body would be if it had a single). DO NOT mount on the plenum or it'll have extremely uneven cylinder distribution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, but the theory is the same.......

both of you guys have rb25 (single throttle body) so its abit easier on placement choice, rb26 = itb(6)

smell how were you going to place it into the rubber pipe? make/buy an hard inlet pipe with a fitting?

Would it damage the compressor blades? it would circulate back into the inlet pipes of the turbo and turn into vapour?

I've ordered a kit from the states and was thinking of installing it into the pipe few inches past the exit of the intercooler in the inner guard, or just before the plenum intake, the pipe in the engine bay but I have made all my piping out of alloy, so installing will just require a bung welded in.

how many nozzles did you get aswell? could place them in multiple positions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought i made it clear. IN THE COLD PIPE BEFORE THE PLENUM.

Any earlier and it'll just hit the cooler piping walls and any later (like IN the plenum) will have uneven cylinder distribution.

IN THE COLD PIPE BEFORE THE PLENUM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
    • Need something reliable, like a Mazda (non-rotary), or a Honda, or a .......... Commodore 🤣, the only issue with my cars is me 🫤
    • Then sell it and buy a BMW! I can totally relate to this (except the money part! ). I think for me I need to remind myself that I do enjoy the process and to stop being so damn impatient and eager to get it done. That just leads to frustration and broken stuff.  Built not bought. Wait.  Fixed, not fought? No ... Definitely fighting things. Definitely not fixed, I give up. Cars are pain.  
    • This week is the McLaren F1 GTR around Le Man.  I have a 3:48 ish I think (from memory) which is 2 secs off silver.  My issue is that I did a heap of the current daily race c around Le Man with the 787B first and switching to the McLaren is hard.
×
×
  • Create New...