Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all just need some quick rb25 info as im new to them and dont know much about

them have always had rb30et's ok so first i have just bought a vl with a 1996 r33 s2 rb25

conversion done in it mods are 3 inch exhaust and cooler using standard r33 ecu

ok well it was only running standard boost 7psi but i just bought a boost tee and put

it up to 11-12psi now i know they only have a ceramic rear wheel so how much boost am

i safe to run ?? and how much power have ppl gotten out of just few simple mods like mine

and whats acheivable with standard turbo dont wanna upgrade just yet but yer just really

wanna know the boost one before i go driving it to much on 12psi any info is muchly appreciated

thank you all RBJ37

IIRC the series 2 turbos can handle a bit more boost.

Dunno where, but I definitely saw that somewhere.

Still wouldn't go past 12 pound...

With all that, you should be looking at about 180-220rwkw depending on the tune.

If i were you, id be getting a tune, so you can really enjoy the benefits of the increased boost.

[EDIT] my mate has a RB25 (series 2) in his patrol, and runs 12psi daily, no issues. He was at 15psi for a while, and that poor little turbo is still going fine...

Edited by turbo x-trail
IIRC the series 2 turbos can handle a bit more boost.

Dunno where, but I definitely saw that somewhere.

Still wouldn't go past 12 pound...

With all that, you should be looking at about 180-220rwkw depending on the tune.

If i were you, id be getting a tune, so you can really enjoy the benefits of the increased boost.

[EDIT] my mate has a RB25 (series 2) in his patrol, and runs 12psi daily, no issues. He was at 15psi for a while, and that poor little turbo is still going fine...

thanks heaps for the info but how can you get a tune with a standard ecu ?? what just timing and what not

im not to sure with these 25's and there comps i only know rb30et's as thats all i have ever used i know you cant

do much with a standard vl turbo ecu are 25 comps much different ?? i got nothing to tune only standard ecu ??

My advice is leave the timing alone(15).

Save up and get a power FC or get a nistune. Might want to turn the boost down to 9-10 if youre going to be taking her to the track.

i was actually just thinking about goin to see my good mate rick at efi performance and was thinking

bout goin with a nistune and maybe using a z32 airflow meter as i have heard they are the best to use

and will support upto about 500hp ?? and for about 950 fitted and tuned the nistune is best bang for the

buck i reckon what is everyones thoughts on even just using maybe and safc and maybe e boost2 or

something was thinking maybe just goin that way as i would be happy with 200rwkw for the mean time

till i upgrade to 35/40 and all the rest of the goodies :) and would 11 psi be ok for the street with standard

turbs thats what it is on atm cant hear any pinging or anything of the sort so think should be ok maybe till

i get a power run and afr to make sure everything is ok.........

12psi is fine. aslong as base timing is set properly and everythings working as it should then it wont knock on the standard ecu, way too much fuel and not enough timing. for nistune on a 25 you need to use a r32 or z32 ecu, z32 allows you to keep vct but requires a few wires to be changed around.

Running 12 psi on your stock turbo is fine wouldnt go over though. With your current mods... i know with a PFC stock turbo you'l be achievable of doing 180-200kws. With stock ECU maybe 160-170's range.

12psi is fine. aslong as base timing is set properly and everythings working as it should then it wont knock on the standard ecu, way too much fuel and not enough timing. for nistune on a 25 you need to use a r32 or z32 ecu, z32 allows you to keep vct but requires a few wires to be changed around.

well i have set on just 11psi so wont push it anymore then that might go for a highflow very soon as my mate

works for mtq here in brisbane and builds turbos all day haha get myself a brand new highflow for about $400 :)

pretty sure base timing should be ok seems to run fine just not as fast as i would thought it to be i think there

might be another little problem as if you put your foot flat to the floor it doesnt really wanna go anywhere but if

you just ease it on slowly it starts moving really need to get a tune and check timing anyway how do i do that

on a rb25 as they are a lil diff to rb30's ??

and does anyone have a z32 comp they wanna sell me so i can do a nistune comp

if anyone has one let me know price and shizz i can get one for 250 but just seeing

what else i can get cheaper thanks ppls

you dont need a Z32 afm for 200 rwkw and stock turbo, just nistune the board with stock afm and it will be sweet

yer i know that i sed has anyone got a z32 ecu for sale and i have been told no point doing the

z32 airflow meter till i do injectors so all is good just need ecu and i will use the standard 3 pin afm

till i upgrade turbo and injectors :P

oh sorry i read wrong.

Personally i would just remap a 32 ecu, disregard the lack of VCT as once the ecu is tuned the loss of VCT is not at all noticable

i have heard that you can notice it a lil bit in the midrange ??

depends on the tuner.

When mine was tuned, it made more power everywhere in the rev range, so a loss of midrange was not noticed or even evident at all when compared to the stock map.

that said ive driven some set ups with utterly shit tunes on them and they feel like a dog to drive down low but go hard up top. thats because theres plenty of tuners out there who are shit at anything but focusing on WOT maps.

depends on the tuner.

When mine was tuned, it made more power everywhere in the rev range, so a loss of midrange was not noticed or even evident at all when compared to the stock map.

that said ive driven some set ups with utterly shit tunes on them and they feel like a dog to drive down low but go hard up top. thats because theres plenty of tuners out there who are shit at anything but focusing on WOT maps.

hmm interesting well thats really good to know that its only in the tune :P quite funny how the vct doesnt have

any affect really if the tune is altered haha hmm anyways i will see how i go wen the time comes to put the nistune

in wich will probably be in the next 3 to 4 weeks :ermm:

and a graph of what happens when you run too much boost with a standard ecu, on a s1 anyway. vtec yo

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...17052008009.jpg

as for not going anywhere, is it blowing out spark?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...