Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ah speaking of one of those such experts here he is.

Wanna refresh us on why you can't run a mid 11 with 260rwkw?

Even though it has been done?

I find it hard to keep a straight face responding to your posts any more. Are you taking the piss?

At what point did I say anything about 260rwkw cars?

Are you?

You never had to say anything about 260rwkw cars, lets cast back the clock what, 2 weeks?

You said a mid 11 could only just be attained - realistically with 300rwkw, in a 32-t

Your reaching. 300rwkw in a manual skyline on drag radials is realistically mid to high 11's.

300rwkw is more than 260rwkw last time i checked.

So if 260rwkw ran a mid 11 (in a heavier car) then realistically... Wouldn't that mean you're in no place to comment about who is a fool?

LOL

Adrian did extremely well with his car, and I would say is an exception to the norm. Never the less, he was not making 300rwkw, was not running 10's and (according to his webpage) despite making more power now is yet to do so. Not having been done before doesn't make it impossible - but it does mean for a regular street driven skyline having the odd run at the track its very f*cking unlikely!

I haven't resorted to name calling yet :D But with comments like this it would be warranted.

I thought mid 11's wasn't possible with even 300rwkw according to the experts around here
Edited by DCIEVE
LOL

Adrian did extremely well with his car, and I would say is an exception to the norm. Never the less, he was not making 300rwkw, was not running 10's and (according to his webpage) despite making more power now is yet to do so. Not having been done before doesn't make it impossible - but it does mean for a regular street driven skyline having the odd run at the track its very f*cking unlikely!

Adrian is only an exception to the norm due to his birth defects and tendancy to be a natural fithly ricer and a cheater. :(

The bolting on of a nitrous kit to the average stock turbo/motor gtst and running 11's with supporting bits is not an exceptional feat at all. The only exception is that most of the skyline community don't understand how great nitrous is and what it can get you if your game is the odd 1/4 mile and mostly street driving every other day. A kit can be setup to be bolted on and off in 15min for a trip to the track. So you can have a stocker during the day and everything you like about that and then do the right thing legally and leave the foot down activity to the drag strip.

When I sold my old bunky nitrous kit to Adrian I predicted he would run mid 11's once sorted at about the 100 shot mark or snick over.

If anyone is keen to have a go they can basically expect the same results with the same approach. :P

What I would like to see is a dedicated Nitrous skyline with a big ass 300+ hp direct port setup. :P

Adrian is only an exception to the norm due to his birth defects and tendancy to be a natural fithly ricer and a cheater. :blink:

The bolting on of a nitrous kit to the average stock turbo/motor gtst and running 11's with supporting bits is not an exceptional feat at all. The only exception is that most of the skyline community don't understand how great nitrous is and what it can get you if your game is the odd 1/4 mile and mostly street driving every other day. A kit can be setup to be bolted on and off in 15min for a trip to the track. So you can have a stocker during the day and everything you like about that and then do the right thing legally and leave the foot down activity to the drag strip.

When I sold my old bunky nitrous kit to Adrian I predicted he would run mid 11's once sorted at about the 100 shot mark or snick over.

If anyone is keen to have a go they can basically expect the same results with the same approach. :banana:

What I would like to see is a dedicated Nitrous skyline with a big ass 300+ hp direct port setup. :D

I have a $2100 genuine NOS nitrous system with all the bells and whistles available for $1100 if anyone needs to go fast. Its still new...someone buy it before i loose my mind and actually try using it.

you believe rego papers? :)

Mine was nothing near what the sticker had, fked if i know where those numbers come from to be honest because they certainly are not putting the cars onto the scales!

Adrian is only an exception to the norm due to his birth defects and tendancy to be a natural fithly ricer and a cheater. :thumbsup:

The bolting on of a nitrous kit to the average stock turbo/motor gtst and running 11's with supporting bits is not an exceptional feat at all. The only exception is that most of the skyline community don't understand how great nitrous is and what it can get you if your game is the odd 1/4 mile and mostly street driving every other day. A kit can be setup to be bolted on and off in 15min for a trip to the track. So you can have a stocker during the day and everything you like about that and then do the right thing legally and leave the foot down activity to the drag strip.

When I sold my old bunky nitrous kit to Adrian I predicted he would run mid 11's once sorted at about the 100 shot mark or snick over.

If anyone is keen to have a go they can basically expect the same results with the same approach. :whistling:

What I would like to see is a dedicated Nitrous skyline with a big ass 300+ hp direct port setup. :D

quoted for truth...

R31NISMOID come on, i've seen at least 20 cars with 300rwkw run in the mid to high 11's!!!

you can't compare a stock turbo car with giggle gas to a normal street car, pull the gas off and you would get around a low 13

Edited by Cerbera

Hi guys, i dont post normally but i just had to get in on this one. Firstly ive had a few different cars including big v8s and i hang around some boys that are really into there racing ( yes mostly v8's ) I do however drive a r32 gtr as a daily driver. What i find most upsetting is that people look at HP figures as if its all that counts, which couldnt be further from the truth.

* we all know that if u take out weight from a car the car will go faster

* Suspension setup to me is high on the list but gets higher and higher the more power u make...u might say bullshit...thats fine talk to sum guys running 10's, 9's, 8's even prostock guys all the way to top fuellers and they will all tell u they can make more power no problem its just putting that power down thats the problem.

* I have not heard one guy on this forum or other japanese car forums ever talk about the moroso calculator. Yes it does apply to a forced induction aswell as it would to a naturally aspirated car but if u take into account that a turbo car will usually make more mph ( maybe 3% more )on a 1/4 mile pass that an NA car, but it will usually make a slower 60 ft time ( by .1 - .2 ) compared to an NA car. Take these things into consideration and u will have a very good estimate at what your car is capable of.... Not what it will do, but if all things are right like suspension, driving technique, gearing etc

* Another thing just incase some people dont understand this but it is easily possible for a 250kw car to beat a 300kw car in any race let it be circuit or drag. Reason why is the way we describe power..yes 300kw is the max but whats the average? the 300kw car may have 300 above 6500 and anything below is like your driving a corolla but the 250kw car makes power at 3500 and pulls strong through to 7500. Hence why some dyno competition cars run crap numbers at the strip.

* next point is and im sure we have all seen them at the strip is the guy that makes 400rwkws but for some reason just manages to get the best ET of 11.8 @116mph....Basically if he hasnt got a problem with the car then his car isnt making 400 at all. Dynos are a good tool... no a great tool but they dont do everything and to be honest if i was getting my car dynod and tuned id be taking it to the guy that says he can get the most out of it. Hence ur average guy isnt going to fork out $10000 for a rebuild thats gonna get him 350kw when the shop down the street says for the same price ill get u 400kws.... Ask these guys to sell u a 11 sec package thats guaranteed and then they'll start talking different.

* My ford sedan 351 v8 ran 12.6's @ 109mph with 1.8 60ft all day long according to the moroso calculator i should run 12.2 on the dot with that mph and the calc shows the car makes......350hp..... and u might ask well why isnt it running that well number one it isnt that far off and number 2 the convertor in it was small. Basically im saying that dyno figures can and are overated by some people and if u want to see how much power ( at the very least ) your making look at the mph because if u know the weight of the car and the mph u will have a very close ballpark figure of ur ET.

Just for reference i think it goes like this

12's- 105 to 110mph

11's- 115 to 125mph

10's- 130 to 140mph

these are just approximations but you will get the idea

Well ye, if you took off the gas it wouldn't be making 260rwkw anymore now would it?

So of course its going to be lower. Although it would still be mid 12's on semis. I was running 12.8-12.9 with 210-220rwkw and street tyres (1500kg).

Semi's will easily see a mid 12 if not lower as you'll be .2 --> .3 faster over the 60ft, and you're looking at .5-->.6/.7 @ the other end as a result.

Ill let you know what 255rwkw in a 33 GTST does soon.

Although I imagined 255rwkw would feel faster then what it does. But its done the power on a few different dynos so hopefully its close to accurate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
×
×
  • Create New...