Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

might be ablet to get you a cheap rb25det gearbox ;)
haha wud still love to see what its like.

combine the 2 :) making the ultimate time machine

the vid does mention them making upgrades to suspension and engine. however stainless steel would be a heavy. would it rust though? what u do when u need a respray :happy:

wayne, go an see troy at tyrepower. he'll price match. and you dont have to pay shipping + fitting and balance on top.

steve, again, call up a shop like tyrepower and ask them for an honest no bs answer. 15-20,000 maybe.

also just got my qfm pads, paid for them over the phone yesterday at 2 pm, postie came by 5 minutes ago with them.

Edited by scandyflick
wayne, go an see troy at tyrepower. he'll price match. and you dont have to pay shipping + fitting and balance on top.

steve, again, call up a shop like tyrepower and ask them for an honest no bs answer. 15-20,000 maybe.

also just got my qfm pads, paid for them over the phone yesterday at 2 pm, postie came by 5 minutes ago with them.

Will call tyrepower, I'm going to need a couple fronts pretty soon.

Which pads did you get Dave, HPX or A1RM?

The KU31's I bought are on the back. My fronts have the insides chewed out now because of incorrect toe! I'm thinking of going for the HPX pads, not going to be tracking my car :)

tasty.

a1rms are still good cold, but they still work when they get hot. ive already overheated my 450 degree acres once.

Any tyrepower in particular lol?

i think theres one in salisbury. try them.

... adelaide you tit.

The KU31's I bought are on the back. My fronts have the insides chewed out now because of incorrect toe! I'm thinking of going for the HPX pads, not going to be tracking my car :)

Same, the hpx sounds like a decent, relatively dust free street pad

weezy - teins are pretty decent, ill know after this weekend if I want to buy them but so far so good...

-D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...