Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

.82 rear, thats why its a bit laggy, but u got more topend out of it

since u cant check ya knock level reading just keep an eye on ya engine warning light, if it starts to come on regulary after a boosting hard step off and getnya tuner to check everything again (timing)

I am not really fussed, still picks up speed quick, boost hits like a train...which is rather interesting, first few times i did it, it was like when they hit the NOS in Fast & The Furious :) .

Since it is more laggy now, does that mean i am going to get better fuel economy when just dribbling around town?

Not so much at 160km/h but the revs at which point on this garph it hit 160km/h if you know what I'm saying.

yeah I was only using kph as a reference for the graph....load on the road could lean it out at any speed

As a rule of thumb 14:1 at idle, and depending on your timing and amount of brake on the rollers 12:1 is the leanest I'd ever go up top.....11.5:1 is a bit safer as long as everything else is taken into consideration.......we're talking pump fuel by the way.

I am not really fussed, still picks up speed quick, boost hits like a train...which is rather interesting, first few times i did it, it was like when they hit the NOS in Fast & The Furious :) .

Since it is more laggy now, does that mean i am going to get better fuel economy when just dribbling around town?

mate dont worry i no what its like to have a laggy turbo and thats on a forged eng. i have garrett gt3540 on mine

and like yours when boost hits it hits HARD!!!!!!!!

i love it

ahhahha my fuel economy is shit and thats rarely boosting it

I am not really fussed, still picks up speed quick, boost hits like a train...which is rather interesting, first few times i did it, it was like when they hit the NOS in Fast & The Furious :thumbsup: .

Crank up the boost to 18psi and feel the hit :)

buy decent quality straight off the bat. please. save for an extra week or 2 and buy cusco's or something.

It has been suggested on these very forums that the BC coilovers come out of the same plant as the Greddy coilovers. I'm not entirely sure whether it's true or not.... but either way the BC coilovers have springs that are too stiff for my liking!

I really do wonder, what exactly drives people to do this.

Also, why 49?

Doesnt help when your girlfriend posts what you've done over her Facebook status updates like Dan showed us!

i think krish is making similiar power to you abe. about the 250rwkw mark.

Yep making around 246.6 rwkw on 14.5psi....needing a new exhaust as when we cranked the boost up to 17psi at 400rpm it starting dropping off to 14psi and held hard on 14psi....for some stupid reason the boost wont go higher then 14psi so we ie me and the tuner came to the conclusion of needs a new cat back system and also have to get andrew from AM Performance to fit it all up as there is a leak out of the vband flange thingy

I am not really fussed, still picks up speed quick, boost hits like a train...which is rather interesting, first few times i did it, it was like when they hit the NOS in Fast & The Furious :)

Since it is more laggy now, does that mean i am going to get better fuel economy when just dribbling around town?

I am using a .63 rear housing so my boost comes on a bit earlier then yours Abe but has the same feeling of hitting you like a damn train when the boost kicks in.....well described with the FnF NOS scenario....cant wait to check it out tomorrow

mine is at boostworx right now, tuning the AEM FIC-8 ecu.

235kw at 5850rpm but not reving past 5850 at all - Im sure its a setting in the program,

I have made my suggestion re calibration to the tuners, so hopefully a little later I'll get the good news that all is fixed and well, reving thu to 7250rpm as per the remap chip.

the AEM FIC-8 looks great: here http://www.aempower.com/files/electronics/...lease080728.exe

for $350 off ebay its a massive score, considering the safc/sitc sold for $300 before they were even off the car! ;)

Hopefully my thoughts re the tune program setup work, and she free revs again into the red zone.

250kw

:)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...