Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

really ghetto initially. basically got L brackets from bunnings and bolted them to the seat. then where they lined up on the rail, drilled and bolted them on

make sure u get strong ones though

I'll race ya with the nitro R32 up to 50km/h, it could go up faster but launch is super quick due to it's light weight AWD making it a quick win :cool:

electric is faster :bunny:

I was running a mamba brushless combo and a 3s lipo and was seeing speeds around 100kph with foam tyers. Im also running a Team losi truck with a Sidewinder 5700kv combo and 2s lipo and im hitting speeds around 70kph with offroad tyers.

Quick update on the 26.

The loom is off the motor, aswell as the plenum. Need to organise a small crack in the plenum to be welded up and then strip it down with paint stripper and get it looking like new. Will be replacing all hoses with black silicon ones and getting new intake gaskets.

I picked up the rc car with the S15 shell at hobby habits on main north, the 34 shell at hobby habit daws road and the 32 shell on ebay, I also got an R34 shell that my girlfriend painted a charmeleon purple green colour lol I so wouldnt mind them 1:10 scaled Work Meister or XSA mmmmm

Dave, I was originally going to go for another electric and eventually whack a mamba max in there but couldnt resist trying out the nitro - the noise and the smoke is awesome. I could whack a mamba into the associated 1:18 I got but searching around apparently it doesnt stay on the ground because its too small/light :cool:

That R32 shell only just came in the mail today so its fresh and clean... and then it'll just end up like my S15 shell after it's first tank lol

the middle R34 shell will go on an electric one eventually :rofl:

Did you get your models from Hobby Habit?

also..just dial in some camber..always fun there!

thats it there..on the camera phone.

haha me, scott and adrian have 1:10 electric drift cars, farkin fun, havent taken mine out of the shed in a while tho. I have a 32 gtr shell, Blitz R34 drift shell, AE86 panda spec shell and an S15 :(

Whatever you do, grease up the driveshafts, the front ones are farking expensive!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...