Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland

heslo

By heslo,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

writeoff Mentor

writeoff

Posted
Posted
Yeah no shit hey. Trying to find out about catch can setups/ oil mods for some piece of mind and just when I get some useful info someone two posts down trashes it.

All I want is a lightly tuned reliable GTR.

  • Oil mods like which catch can, relocator and oil cooler
  • Front pipes (No I'm not going to AM Performance
  • Pods or panel filters
  • clutch, ebc, injectors, cams, fuel pumps.

Too many options, too many chances of buying a brand thats not going to work well.

It's simple, there's ASSLOADS of recommendations out there. Easiest way to pick what works, go to the RB26 dyno thread, compile a part list, work from there. That way you know what works and what doesn't.

As for your list...

[*]Oil mods like which catch can, relocator and oil cooler - JJR Autech catchcans are the trick, simple, cheap, easy

[*]Front pipes (No I'm not going to AM Performance) - If you're not going to listen to heaps of people recommending you see Andrew, I won't answer this, he is cheap, does quality work and his service is second to none

[*]Pods or panel filters - Standard air box is good for 400atw, it also lets a shitload more cold air in through the air guide, do the math

[*]clutch, ebc, injectors, cams, fuel pumps - Clutch; a nice twin is my opinion but that's personal preference. EBC; anything like the Profec B or the Blitz SBC. Injectors; 700cc Sards, straight drop in, easy as (although not needed if keeping standard tubos). Cams; not needed. Fuel pump; I prefer the Nismo for straight drop in but you can get by with an 044 or 040 Bosch

There you have it, a nice, easy, reliable part list.

I pretty much agree with everything that Heslo said.

For an oil cooler get one that sits in the brake ducting rather than in front of the radiator.

As for cost buy from Japan - Nengun, Greenline, Perfect Run, Import Monster or RHD Japan. With the current exchange rate against the greenback check out some USA sites as well and see how they compare.

There is soooo much info on what to do with an RB26 on SAU that you can get lost but you will soon figure out who knows what they're talking about. Most of the oil mods won't happen until you open the engine so start saving for it. Until that time stay off the rev limiter and put an extra litre of oil in for track days or if you intend to do some launches.

DSTROY Grand Master

DSTROY

Posted
Posted
:P So Chad, whats it like to drive a 300kw monster on the road

Entertaining! Just make sure you have good tyres, I'm running crap street rubber atm and the hills scare the crap out of me. 3rd gear plus boost = sideways, even 4WD does not help :P

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
Entertaining! Just make sure you have good tyres, I'm running crap street rubber atm and the hills scare the crap out of me. 3rd gear plus boost = sideways, even 4WD does not help :P

may i ask what rubber? kumho's im guessing? have u ever tried the toyo t1r? if so, how does it compare?

-D

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
Posted
any one had any experience with fitting these?

i want to run it with this

in one of these.........

fuel tank in there atm hasnt been used in 3 years, so i hate to see the shit in the bottom, also

need to replace fuel pump anyways....

from what ive been told craig, you'd need a surge tank with that setup as well

the only fuel cell ive seen that doesnt require that is a polycarbonate model from autosport, which im purchasing for the 31 for circuit

DSTROY Grand Master

DSTROY

Posted
Posted
may i ask what rubber? kumho's im guessing? have u ever tried the toyo t1r? if so, how does it compare?

-D

Think of tyre brands most people haven't heard of before, I never buy good street tyres, i just use second hand crap. It makes driving more fun :P

craig R33 Grand Master

craig R33

Posted
Posted
iced cofee?

correct. well played.

sigh, dont get me started on IC atm..... coles have them for $1.44...

so when i did shoppin thurs night, i bought 15 of em

saves me buying one a day at 3 bucks....

in theory, they should have lasted me 15 days right?

wrong, i have one left.

and f*k it ima drink it nao

D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Craig, Trent replied in that 17C thread you started in the Forced induction section, Seems it's a bit laggier than first thought with full boost (21psi) @ 4800RPM. That makes it as laggy as a TD06SL2-20G which would put you over the 300kw mark. I guess the old tech' compressor wheel isn't as efficient as the new stuff.

Edited by D_Stirls
D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yeah i'll take it, i'm planning on buying a stag' next year so i'll either use it on that, or clean it up, put a kit through it and see if i can make some money selling it on NS, here or on Ebay

Edited by D_Stirls
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...