Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah no shit hey. Trying to find out about catch can setups/ oil mods for some piece of mind and just when I get some useful info someone two posts down trashes it.

All I want is a lightly tuned reliable GTR.

  • Oil mods like which catch can, relocator and oil cooler
  • Front pipes (No I'm not going to AM Performance
  • Pods or panel filters
  • clutch, ebc, injectors, cams, fuel pumps.

Too many options, too many chances of buying a brand thats not going to work well.

It's simple, there's ASSLOADS of recommendations out there. Easiest way to pick what works, go to the RB26 dyno thread, compile a part list, work from there. That way you know what works and what doesn't.

As for your list...

[*]Oil mods like which catch can, relocator and oil cooler - JJR Autech catchcans are the trick, simple, cheap, easy

[*]Front pipes (No I'm not going to AM Performance) - If you're not going to listen to heaps of people recommending you see Andrew, I won't answer this, he is cheap, does quality work and his service is second to none

[*]Pods or panel filters - Standard air box is good for 400atw, it also lets a shitload more cold air in through the air guide, do the math

[*]clutch, ebc, injectors, cams, fuel pumps - Clutch; a nice twin is my opinion but that's personal preference. EBC; anything like the Profec B or the Blitz SBC. Injectors; 700cc Sards, straight drop in, easy as (although not needed if keeping standard tubos). Cams; not needed. Fuel pump; I prefer the Nismo for straight drop in but you can get by with an 044 or 040 Bosch

There you have it, a nice, easy, reliable part list.

I pretty much agree with everything that Heslo said.

For an oil cooler get one that sits in the brake ducting rather than in front of the radiator.

As for cost buy from Japan - Nengun, Greenline, Perfect Run, Import Monster or RHD Japan. With the current exchange rate against the greenback check out some USA sites as well and see how they compare.

There is soooo much info on what to do with an RB26 on SAU that you can get lost but you will soon figure out who knows what they're talking about. Most of the oil mods won't happen until you open the engine so start saving for it. Until that time stay off the rev limiter and put an extra litre of oil in for track days or if you intend to do some launches.

:P So Chad, whats it like to drive a 300kw monster on the road

Entertaining! Just make sure you have good tyres, I'm running crap street rubber atm and the hills scare the crap out of me. 3rd gear plus boost = sideways, even 4WD does not help :P

Entertaining! Just make sure you have good tyres, I'm running crap street rubber atm and the hills scare the crap out of me. 3rd gear plus boost = sideways, even 4WD does not help :P

may i ask what rubber? kumho's im guessing? have u ever tried the toyo t1r? if so, how does it compare?

-D

any one had any experience with fitting these?

i want to run it with this

in one of these.........

fuel tank in there atm hasnt been used in 3 years, so i hate to see the shit in the bottom, also

need to replace fuel pump anyways....

from what ive been told craig, you'd need a surge tank with that setup as well

the only fuel cell ive seen that doesnt require that is a polycarbonate model from autosport, which im purchasing for the 31 for circuit

may i ask what rubber? kumho's im guessing? have u ever tried the toyo t1r? if so, how does it compare?

-D

Think of tyre brands most people haven't heard of before, I never buy good street tyres, i just use second hand crap. It makes driving more fun :P

iced cofee?

correct. well played.

sigh, dont get me started on IC atm..... coles have them for $1.44...

so when i did shoppin thurs night, i bought 15 of em

saves me buying one a day at 3 bucks....

in theory, they should have lasted me 15 days right?

wrong, i have one left.

and f*k it ima drink it nao

Hey Craig, Trent replied in that 17C thread you started in the Forced induction section, Seems it's a bit laggier than first thought with full boost (21psi) @ 4800RPM. That makes it as laggy as a TD06SL2-20G which would put you over the 300kw mark. I guess the old tech' compressor wheel isn't as efficient as the new stuff.

Edited by D_Stirls

Yeah i'll take it, i'm planning on buying a stag' next year so i'll either use it on that, or clean it up, put a kit through it and see if i can make some money selling it on NS, here or on Ebay

Edited by D_Stirls
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...