Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dion, if u read this. Was just looking at the engine u brought, you do know u have to pay aus customs, quarantine, agent fee's, docking fee's, storage fee's on that engine when it arrives here? roughly another 800-1k on top of the buy it price which streeter has quoted u.
ouch.... i hope he did realise this, he seemed to think it was a fair cheap engine :)

Yeah, I did know this, and Im still in front of buying locally because I'm not just getting an engine..

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmmm. Well in the process of my alarm installation we've found my car used to have a boost controller, turbo timer and some sort of temp gauge. Also my standard boost restrictor has been removed.

Now with that removed and a catback exhaust my installer seems to think I'd be running atleast 14psi and he says I'm risking detonation because my timing or something might not be right and that I should hook up a boost gauge to know exactly how much psi I'm running and he can make it so I don't run the risk of detonation.

Is he talking shit or should I be concerned?

Well I took the R out for a drive after work. No detonation what so ever and on the STD boost gauge it makes it all the way up to the second to last line. So I don't think that is 14psi. I think I still might chuck it on the dyno just to check my AFR settings.

I want a boost gauge.. But where the standard GTR cluster is. Anyone know of any? Or where others have mounted their boost gauges?

nismo 1 looks the goods but it reads boost in kg/cm2

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/console-meter-skyline-r32-gtr

Edited by J-Dawg
I want a boost gauge.. But where the standard GTR cluster is. Anyone know of any? Or where others have mounted their boost gauges?

nismo 1 looks the goods but it reads boost in kg/cm2

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/console-meter-skyline-r32-gtr

I had the original aftermarket boost gauge bolted to the left hand side of the dash cluster which was not very regency friendly, and dog ugly.

Mounted this one and an oil pressure gauge where the clock used to be.

DSC00251.JPG

-D

I want to try to keep it as STD or original as possible. Might try and get one of those Nismo clusters.. Don't really see much else out there

Edit: Yeh Dave.. Exactly what I'm looking for! How much that set you back? PM if need be.

Edited by J-Dawg
Yeah I hate that too Dan. No point having two boost gauges! Just replace the standard with one that runs at PSI or BAR and is more accurate

Easier said than done, all 3 gauges in the centre are electronic based gauges which use the same circuitboard. It could be possible to replace the fascia with a psi or bar version however I've never seen one available for purchase. Most of the time people replace that 3 gauge cluster with either defi electric gauge 3 pack or 3x 52mm individual mechanical gauges

-D

Ive got this sort of thing:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RADIO-SLOT-POD-3-x-...=item19b78f0f2d

using oil pressure guage, my aem wideband ratio guage, boost guage

not installed yet, then will sell my apexi boost guage

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...