Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So those who have water craft on here, who do you use for insurance and whats the sorta cost?

i had my 18 ft nerues with sgic valued at $ 25g and i cost about 550 a yr from memory i did it at the boat show once the 25g was broken down into parts ie so much for the boat and so much for the trailer and so much for the engine .

i think club marine is another populer one as well

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ay, dont be like that, were all friends ere :banana:

When ya gonna come get this gas bottle?? Is just sittin next to the 31 in the sun waiting to explode :P

i pmed ya a couple of times but ya didnt reply lol i will be up ur way tomorrow morning sometime anyone be home ? pm me ya mobile number too arrange something ..

this is somewhat problematic.

went to fit my braided lines just now, fronts went in without a hitch, but i found a few rather unpleasant surprises out back...

IMG_3784.jpg

drivers side, you cant really see it, but the nut there is completely rounded.

IMG_3785.jpg

passenger side aint much better, its slightly rounded as well. oh joy of joys.

im guessing that at some point in the cars history, its needed new rear brake lines, and the "mechanic" that did it was actually a neanderthal and used a hammer and a club to undo to the lines.

so i guess ill be spending today hunting down a few new hard lines.

Edited by scandyflick
this is somewhat problematic.

went to fit my braided lines just now, fronts went in without a hitch, but i found a few rather unpleasant surprises out back...

<snip>

drivers side, you cant really see it, but the nut there is completely rounded.

<snip>

passenger side aint much better, its slightly rounded as well. oh joy of joys.

im guessing that at some point in the cars history, its needed new rear brake lines, and the "mechanic" that did it was actually a neanderthal and used a hammer and a club to undo to the lines.

so i guess ill be spending today hunting down a few new hard lines.

You would be surprised...almost all of mine are similar to that, hence why i haven't had the braided lines installed yet, purely because the bolts wouldn't undo, and began to round off.

i had my 18 ft nerues with sgic valued at $ 25g and i cost about 550 a yr from memory i did it at the boat show once the 25g was broken down into parts ie so much for the boat and so much for the trailer and so much for the engine .

i think club marine is another populer one as well

Thats not to bad...We're looking at 2005/06 rxt s/c seadoo's atm need a new toy to play with :P

Anyone able to help me out? Need someone to go to JIS, buy me some R33 Tie Rod Ends - $175, and meet me somewhere, ie vilis, and i shall pay you back. I need the suckers in my hand by Saturday morning. If you are able to help out, send my mobile an sms on 0411876139 with your name and number and i shall call you back.

Edit: If they aren't in my hands by Saturday Morning, i will most likely be unable to attend the track day...there is also $50 in it for who ever does collect them for me.

Boost down to JIS yourself on Saturday morning? Leave early enough to be down there at like 8am when they open? Leave yourself all day to put them in

Wise Choice Tyres & More at Lonsdale are installing them, along with new rear tyres and front wheel alignment. I then need to get to work at 9am at Noarlunga.

What's the highest oil temp you can reach before it's justified to change the oil due to it breaking down?

In the extreme heat going up extreme hills (extreme... f**k yeah), my oil temp eaches about 105... but that's only in rare cases.

Most of the time it sits below 90... usually 80.

this is somewhat problematic.

went to fit my braided lines just now, fronts went in without a hitch, but i found a few rather unpleasant surprises out back...

IMG_3784.jpg

drivers side, you cant really see it, but the nut there is completely rounded.

IMG_3785.jpg

passenger side aint much better, its slightly rounded as well. oh joy of joys.

im guessing that at some point in the cars history, its needed new rear brake lines, and the "mechanic" that did it was actually a neanderthal and used a hammer and a club to undo to the lines.

so i guess ill be spending today hunting down a few new hard lines.

mine are like that

have to use a multigripper unit to grab them, one of the real good ones that claim to grip anything.

in fact, Im going to try to take the front r32 gtst rotors/calipers/a1rm pads and braided lines OFF again, same with stagea, and install the r32 gtst fronts to the stagea

I do NOT want to run bendix pads with 2-pots at the track. 40mins = no pads.

just that I AM a neanderthal with no knees

Ive been in the JMW GTR when its getting severe punishment and it sits on like 60 lol.

Brendan, want another set of R32 GTST 4 Pots??

Got discs and calipers.

cheers, discs are all good, got spares.

put the r32 gtr calipers fron the sedan onto the stagea just now.

probably sell the stagea calipers and grab some r32's to replace the track cars

so, the stag has 4-pots now and new a1rm track pads, got a spare set too. going to test drive now and bedin.

penrite sin 600 brake fluid

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...