Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 14.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

would 18x9.5 +30 rims fit on a stock r33 gtst?

eeeeeasy.

Especially when they cry about how much they miss it :)

lol. ill miss my car, but ill just steal yours when i get bored.

thanks for the quick replies guys

edit:

actually how bout 18x10 +15 ? Im guessin they wouldnt.

Considering getting in on this group buy:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ro...fs-t322390.html

Any thoughts?

Edited by Amaaru

You guys need to go a bit easy when giving advice on fitment. I know some of you are hard core with your own cars, but the average Joe Blow doesn't want to :

1. have to roll his guards

2. endure the occasional tyre scrape on the guards on bumps

3. fit a camber kit and run mega camber

4. chew through tyres like no mans business (see above)

5. stretch 225s on a 10" rim in order to make the tyre not foul on the guard

6. have wheels illegally (and very obviously illegally at that) hanging outside the guards

etc etc etc

id consider something like this a little on the 'unreasonable' side.

IMG_3180.jpg

anything that simply requires a light roll to fit is pretty reasonable imo.

im running (on the rear) a 9 +17 with less than a degree of camber and a 225/45 tyre on mildly rolled guards, ive still got enough space left in there to run a 235/45 with no adjustment, and a 245/45 with a newspaper roll.

granted this is on an s14, but the space they have under the guards isnt all that dissimilar from an r33.

i only ever have trouble with rubbing on my front inner guards*, and thats only ever been an issue at the track, and camber kits and the like are part and parcel when you lower a nissan anymore than what... half an inch? the factory toe and camber arms just dont have the requisite levels of adjustment need to correct geometry when you lower your car.

*... okay, i also had a bit of trouble with the wiring loom, but i caught that before it was an issue, and it was an easy fix.

Edited by scandyflick

haha yea Im not too keen of having some weird camber.

Whats involved in having your guards rolled? Might consider that.

Dont think I would mind the scrapes either, as long as they were occasional :)

Otherwise would typically want something that fits in fine without much modification. I believe I read somewhere that +30 or more is what I would need but Im not sure if that is right. Nor do I know how this relates to the width of the wheel.

I guess I should jst take the time to have a good look and measure it up

haha yea Im not too keen of having some weird camber.

Whats involved in having your guards rolled? Might consider that.

Dont think I would mind the scrapes either, as long as they were occasional :)

Otherwise would typically want something that fits in fine without much modification. I believe I read somewhere that +30 or more is what I would need but Im not sure if that is right. Nor do I know how this relates to the width of the wheel.

I guess I should jst take the time to have a good look and measure it up

Just make sure you try before you buy. Some rims will theorietically work, but infact dont. Places like JIS are happy to fit them up before you buy them to see if it all works.

holy shit, blast from the f**kin 90's!

belting out a shit ton of music on itunes at the moment, and the last 3 songs it spat out were glycerin by bush, shimmer by fuel, and be quiet and drive by the deftones... f**kin hell, it was awesome.

haha yea Im not too keen of having some weird camber.

you lower your car and youre gonna have weird camber. all a part of modded car life. thankfully, camber arms are cheap.

Whats involved in having your guards rolled? Might consider that.

pretty simple procedure, some body shops and most wheel shops (tyrepower, wheeljerx, etc) will roll your guards for $40 a corner.

basically it just involves heating the lip of the guards and knocking inner horizontal lip flush with the skin. gives you a solid half inch clearance.

Dont think I would mind the scrapes either, as long as they were occasional :)

scrapes arent that bad. as i said, ive only ever had problems out on track, and they were solved with zip ties... you mightnt even have that problem.

youre gonna scrape your exhaust and shit more than anything. andrews just being dramatic.

Otherwise would typically want something that fits in fine without much modification. I believe I read somewhere that +30 or more is what I would need but Im not sure if that is right. Nor do I know how this relates to the width of the wheel.

whats your definition of 'fine'?

offset is pretty simple stuff, theres a bunch of great articles out there, even wikipedia has a page on it.

but yeah, places like jis are happy to help you test fit wheels to your car to see how they look, and places like adelaide tyrepower and wheelworx will be happy to give you a hand.

Below is an awesome tool to help you get a feel for the correct width and offset of wheel. Just put in the stock width and offset, and compare the numbers. Obviously you need to be mindful of inner, as well as out clearance - as inner clearance dictates whether you will foul on your suspension components, and obviously outer clearance is whether you will hit your guard (if it is not rolled and assuming no camber). I strongly recommend you lower your car to how you're going to keep it, get it wheel aligned, THEN start choosing wheels/offsets.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

so here i am , sitting at my pc at 4am in the morning and ive started thinking about putting my dented r33 shell to good use as a drift hack...

thinking about putting my whole car into it basically...

just so that i can skid it and not have to worry about paint work getting scratched , panels getting macked in etc etc

sorta missle spec.

should i do it ? :)

i think im loosing my mind...

Then why sell it?

Because I don't want to track it, and I want something I can track without a worry.

Sure I could track the 32 but I really don't want to, too much to loose if I twisted it

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...