Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i have a bit of cash together and i was just wondering on what upgrades should go first on my r33 gtst series 1?

i have so far,

front mount intercooler

20 dollar boost controller

aftermarket intake plenum

bov

air pod filter.

Whats next.?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291951-what-upgarde-should-be-next/
Share on other sites

Well turbo back exhaust+highflow cat and fuel pump if you haven't got them already.

then

adjustable exhaust side cam gear to retain vct

ecu

injectors

bigger turbo

for performance that is. Don't forget upgrading your brakes/tyres/suspension.

just my 2c.

cheers rich

yeah sorry i got a exaust forgot to say,

just a walbro 255l fuel pump?

i have cam gears at home from spool but i have 2 cams not 1, can i just use 1 of em, or should i get like 1 from ebay.

has anyone herd of spool?

also if i get the cam gear replaced on the exaust side how much difference will it make bhp?, and how hard is it for the machanic to put in?

put in some stiff sway bars, strut braces, maybe a monkey bar and if funds persist, some stiffer suspension too

after being in a mates 33 with all this work done (after just getting out of another mates 100% stock one) - i can tell you the difference is insane

oh i forgot to add clutch as the stocker will most likely die somewhere between 180-200rwkw.

walbro gs342,bosch 040,nismo - take your pick. some ppl have had walbro fail - there are fake ones around. nismo is twice the price but direct fit and ists nismo so its heaps cool.

you just need the exhaust cam gear to keep vct(variable cam timing). i havent done mine but i belive it relates to faster spooling than outright kw gains.

you will then really need a tune to make sure everything is running ok (safc/remap). id consider all that stage 1 mods.

then stage 2 would be

PFC/Vipec/Nistune(z32board) - ecu upgrade does wonders for stage 1 mods as well.

injectors

turbo - depending on what you want highflow stock/2530/2835/3076 - the options are endless but it depends what goal you want - power or response.

And would you believe i learnt all that reading SAU:)

cheers Rich

1) Full service - oil/plugs/timing/etc

2) A decent EBC

3) Full exhaust/dump etc

4) Good set of tires and brakes(pads/fluid/machined rotors)

5) Do your bushes if you havent done so already.

6) Dyno to check AFR's and so on.

7) Suspension/springs

That setup will net you around 190rwkw and be super responsive. Hard to beat on the street.

That would be my pick, as If you add a ecu, then it would be better if you changed the injectors and pump at the same time. Then add a bigger radiator and an oil cooler. I didnt mention clutch because you already have that I believe?

picked up an apexi pfc with hand controller no faults good condition for 1100 yay.

also i have a problem with my brakes, when ever i put my foot firm on them it make a thump noise?

brakes still work fine but?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...