Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Old thread was getting confusing, need all these parts gone to clear some space in my humble garage. Price drop on all parts, these are cheap OEM parts that would otherwise be bloody expensive brand new.

- GTR AFMs: $150 (not needed, went to a new ECU with MAF, worked fine and perfect for someone who's current ones are up that famous creek)

- Tuned ECU: $100 (made 187kW 11psi at all four wheels with no dramas good upgrade over the standard ECU and un-defectable)

- Front swaybar: $50

- Air-con "kit": $150 (everything you need to install air-con on your car, compressor, condensor.. etc, summer is coming N1 guys!)

- Diff. rear: $400 (V-spec or A-LSD rear diff. complete, includes lines to ATESSA pump, filled with Redline oil $$$)

- Bridgestone Potenza RE050: $250 (245/45/17, set of four, two are in great condition with plenty of tread left however the other two are not great)

- GTR fuel pump: $50 (works fine, replaced by Nismo pump)

Can organise pick up, or delivery (if you are local around Adelaide) can also arrange postage anywhere at buyers expense. Feel free to PM or call/SMS 0432 562 025.

All price are negotiable!

Mike

post-48167-1255507311_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507512_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507660_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507824_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507898_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507938_thumb.jpg

Edited by bigmikespec
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291984-r33-gtr-vspec-parts-update/
Share on other sites

would you take $100 plus postage for

" Air-con "kit": $150 (everything you need to install air-con on your car, compressor, condensor.. etc, summer is coming N1 guys!)"

miuns the pulley and bracket and aircompressor.

only need fan, and condensor with piping.

plus postage which can be organised later.

- Tuned ECU: SOLD!

- Air-con "kit": condensor and fan SOLD... A/C compressor, belt and bracket still available: $100

- GTR fuel pump: SOLD!

Everything else still available, all needs to go!

Mike

Air con parts sold... thanks "Ten Four"

Parts that remain:

- GTR AFMs: $150 (not needed, went to a new ECU with MAF, worked fine and perfect for someone who's current ones are up that famous creek)

- Diff. rear: $400 (V-spec or A-LSD rear diff. complete, includes lines to ATESSA pump, filled with Redline oil $$$)

- Bridgestone Potenza RE050: $250 (245/45/17, set of four, two are in great condition with plenty of tread left however the other two are not great)

Need these parts gone, have a new diff and tyres already!

Mike

  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers Ten Four!

Still got items for sale...

- GTR AFMs: $150 (pair)

- Diff. rear: $400

- Bridgestone Potenza RE050 245/45/17: $250 (set of four)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi Mike thnx for your message - regards the Atessa, my R32 doesnt have the Attessa Pro system and this is the system I am after. I assume the computer for the Attessa is where the action emanates from rather than something in the diff - or do I have this wrong? Or do you have the Attessa system available with the diff?

thanks Mike

Wow... have not been here for a while.

It is a Vspec diff. (or Active LSD) and it has the Vspec Atessa yes.

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...