Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Old thread was getting confusing, need all these parts gone to clear some space in my humble garage. Price drop on all parts, these are cheap OEM parts that would otherwise be bloody expensive brand new.

- GTR AFMs: $150 (not needed, went to a new ECU with MAF, worked fine and perfect for someone who's current ones are up that famous creek)

- Tuned ECU: $100 (made 187kW 11psi at all four wheels with no dramas good upgrade over the standard ECU and un-defectable)

- Front swaybar: $50

- Air-con "kit": $150 (everything you need to install air-con on your car, compressor, condensor.. etc, summer is coming N1 guys!)

- Diff. rear: $400 (V-spec or A-LSD rear diff. complete, includes lines to ATESSA pump, filled with Redline oil $$$)

- Bridgestone Potenza RE050: $250 (245/45/17, set of four, two are in great condition with plenty of tread left however the other two are not great)

- GTR fuel pump: $50 (works fine, replaced by Nismo pump)

Can organise pick up, or delivery (if you are local around Adelaide) can also arrange postage anywhere at buyers expense. Feel free to PM or call/SMS 0432 562 025.

All price are negotiable!

Mike

post-48167-1255507311_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507512_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507660_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507824_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507898_thumb.jpg

post-48167-1255507938_thumb.jpg

Edited by bigmikespec
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291984-r33-gtr-vspec-parts-update/
Share on other sites

would you take $100 plus postage for

" Air-con "kit": $150 (everything you need to install air-con on your car, compressor, condensor.. etc, summer is coming N1 guys!)"

miuns the pulley and bracket and aircompressor.

only need fan, and condensor with piping.

plus postage which can be organised later.

- Tuned ECU: SOLD!

- Air-con "kit": condensor and fan SOLD... A/C compressor, belt and bracket still available: $100

- GTR fuel pump: SOLD!

Everything else still available, all needs to go!

Mike

Air con parts sold... thanks "Ten Four"

Parts that remain:

- GTR AFMs: $150 (not needed, went to a new ECU with MAF, worked fine and perfect for someone who's current ones are up that famous creek)

- Diff. rear: $400 (V-spec or A-LSD rear diff. complete, includes lines to ATESSA pump, filled with Redline oil $$$)

- Bridgestone Potenza RE050: $250 (245/45/17, set of four, two are in great condition with plenty of tread left however the other two are not great)

Need these parts gone, have a new diff and tyres already!

Mike

  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers Ten Four!

Still got items for sale...

- GTR AFMs: $150 (pair)

- Diff. rear: $400

- Bridgestone Potenza RE050 245/45/17: $250 (set of four)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi Mike thnx for your message - regards the Atessa, my R32 doesnt have the Attessa Pro system and this is the system I am after. I assume the computer for the Attessa is where the action emanates from rather than something in the diff - or do I have this wrong? Or do you have the Attessa system available with the diff?

thanks Mike

Wow... have not been here for a while.

It is a Vspec diff. (or Active LSD) and it has the Vspec Atessa yes.

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...