Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i have just put an rb25 into 32 it runs great lights the wheels up way easier than my 20 and the torque down low is great!!!

just one problem, it blows white smoke on idle, decelaration and if im going up a hill under heavy load but it will stop once boost hits.

if i rev the car to 2000rpm from idle and hold it there i get zero smoke until i let off.

if i really hammer it hard and then stop i get crazy amounts of smoke, if i drive normal i still get some though it would pass as condensation smoke but its definately not

i have checked compression 125,126,125,126,129,129.

i pulled off the dump no oil and not much shaft play, cooler piping return is spotless but there is a slight film on the other side which i think is normal.

i blocked the PCV and intake and setup a vent to atmo catch can, no change.

spark plugs all look fine, no ecu errors.

no oil in water or the other way around.

smoke smells like normal exhaust smoke i guess, definately not acidic like it was when i did a head gasket

i have only driven it maybe 100k's so hard to say if its using oil..

the engine was refurbished(rings, bearings etc) about 3-4 years ago it then did about 15000ks after which it was pulled out of car and sat around for a year, the head was pulled off and checked new valve stem seals were installed and the engine was put back together it sat around for another year then i bought it and installed into my 32 :devil:

any ideas on what i should try next??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292244-rb25-blowing-smoke/
Share on other sites

i personally have never seen a blocked PVC setup work properly. im sure its been done before but not by anyone ive ever met.

put your PVC back to stock, check the valve is working properly and the hose has no splits in it - then see if its still doing it.

worn valve stem seals cause smoke on deceleration - so do valve seats AFAIK.

keep us posted.

i personally have never seen a blocked PVC setup work properly. im sure its been done before but not by anyone ive ever met.

put your PVC back to stock, check the valve is working properly and the hose has no splits in it - then see if its still doing it.

worn valve stem seals cause smoke on deceleration - so do valve seats AFAIK.

keep us posted.

the plugs had no oil on the tips but a very very small amount on the threads.

it was smoking before the PVC valve was blocked, but it was defiantly working as there was a little oil on the plenum nipple.

the head was total reconditioned (new seal and valves etc) then sat on a stand for a year or two and hasn't been started till now.

it also only starts smoking once the car has warmed up, i think if it was valve stem seals it would do the opposite.

at the moment im thinking of just cleaning out all the piping, putting the thing back together and do a few more k's

Edited by battery

I also had this type of problem. However, in my situation, the turbos where the culprits. My car drove well and no other problems existed. So it took awhile to figure it out. I only found out by getting a new turbo turbos. The old ones looked fine when removed and the only evidence of any problem was the discolouring on the exhaust blades, dump pipes were fine and no oil was on them either probably due to high exhaust temp burning the oil and hence the smoke. If your turbo is new, I don't have any other suggestions to the coz.

I also had this type of problem. However, in my situation, the turbos where the culprits. My car drove well and no other problems existed. So it took awhile to figure it out. I only found out by getting a new turbo turbos. The old ones looked fine when removed and the only evidence of any problem was the discolouring on the exhaust blades, dump pipes were fine and no oil was on them either probably due to high exhaust temp burning the oil and hence the smoke. If your turbo is new, I don't have any other suggestions to the coz.

turbo is now new it is possible the seals may have become brittle and leaky after sitting around for a few years idle.

what sort of discoloration did you have?

it makes sense that its the turbo but if there's no evidence of oil i cant be sure, i do have a good rb20 turbo here but its a lot of f**king around to swap it over.

the only other thing im not sure of is if its a crankcase pressure problem, how do i go about ruling this out?

  • 2 weeks later...

My RB20 blows smoke when I rev it above 6000rpm and at no other time. I have no evidence of engine problem so I am suspecting my turbo is slow leaking oil. There is no evidence in the turbo of any leaks, I am still unsure of where it is coming from. The turbo is a hks item with about 5000kms on it and every time I have seen a turbo leak oil it has been in a big way and with huge plumes of smoke.

The engine only has light blue smoke at high rpm.

It may be my breather blowing oil back into my intake??

Will advise when I sort it.

Rgds,

Grippy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...