Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an 94 ECR33 Skyline GTS-t and I am looking for advoce on power ups for it.

It already has a greddy manual boost controller (wound to 11psi), Greddy FM intercooler, 3.5 inch cat back HKS exhaust and a HKS pod filter.

I am thinkin next for:

Sard Fuel Press Reg

Sard 550cc Injectors

HKS 3037 Turbo (or Garrett equivalent)

Top mount turbo manifold ???

Front facing Intake plenum ???

Electronic boost controller ???

I would like some info on where I am able to buy these parts and if someone can advise me on which brands to choose for the manifolds and a boost controller.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292446-rb25-turbo-and-accessory-update/
Share on other sites

Sard Fuel Press Reg- dont use one

Sard 550cc Injectors-Ive got 800cc gives me room in the future

HKS 3037 Turbo (or Garrett equivalent)- I went bigger (T04) which is a bit laggy but punches like Mike Tyson, the standard one high flowed is good though.

Top mount turbo manifold ???- Like mine but looks out there if you get pulled over and cops pop the hood.

Front facing Intake plenum ???- I got a Greedy knock off which is preforming well and much cheaper

Electronic boost controller ???-Profec B 2

I use a LINK ECU to control the thing

It all depends what you want the car to do, drags, circuit, daily or something of a all rounder which will be good at most things you throw at it.

Work out what you want your car for, then you can work out how much power is needed(over about 280kw needs forged internals if you want it to last) and what you need to get there and what is just wasting your money, but first do your brakes, quality tyres and suspension which is the most important factor of the build up.

S15 Spec R Injectors(480cc) - would easily support well over 300kw. And it would be cheaper then new sards.

Top mount mani - not necessary but would make a difference bigtime.

If running an internal gate then would pay to get a decent EBC as you def dont want creeping.

Imho - dont waste time modifying the factory plenum. I would take that money and spend it on a decent cluch.

Also you might need to upgrade coils then too(only if its breaking under boost). GL

Get a highflowed stock turbo eg a GCG or slide (depends how much cash you have) you mentioned the HKS turbo so you can afford the gcg. That way it looks stock and you don't have to modify as much. Also if you try and max the 3037 out I don't know how long your motor will last if its still got the original bearings etc. Keep the standard intake and get either a R34 sidemount of a FMIC.

I'd then organise some aftermarket ECU or some way to tune the setup, a clutch to handle the power and maybe a diff/rims if you are still running stock ones.

edit: oh yeah if you have stock suspension Id personally be fixing this, the clutch, diff, rims etc first before seeking more power.

Edited by Rolls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...