Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just picked this up as advertised an an "r33 recirc valve" however Im thinking that this isnt what it is. I sort of suspected this when I bought it but it was just a fraction of the $50 that most people charge for one on this site. Can anyone tell me what it is? or if it is possible that I could use this on my 33 gtst?

post-60059-1255849643_thumb.jpg

Edited by Crackfox
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/292461-what-is-this-part/
Share on other sites

I am pretty sure that it is a GTR type twin recirc valve and I am currently fitting one of the recirc valves to my skyline, I'm currently installing it and will see how it goes, looking like the only modification needed will be from the different pipe sizes which is an easy fix. Will see how it runs soon

OK so its a GTR bov? not bad for $10 then I guess:p The guy selling it didnt know much about it, he drove an audi and when I asked which model skyline he used to own he said he had never even owned a nissan so I dunno how he obtained it.

I have taken one of the recirc valves off and installed it on my skyline. Is the only difference between the gtst and gtr recirc valves the pipe sizes on the larger end? can anyone confirm this or are is there other changes as well?

Seems to run fine with the new recirc valve, now it makes a funny "pchieww" type noise instead of pshhhhttt at gear changes, the cars responsiveness also seems ever so slightly decreased though it is a very subtle difference which is expected I guess. The cars small backfiring issue and occasionally lumpy idle also appear to be solved.

OK so its a GTR bov? not bad for $10 then I guess:p The guy selling it didnt know much about it, he drove an audi and when I asked which model skyline he used to own he said he had never even owned a nissan so I dunno how he obtained it.

I have taken one of the recirc valves off and installed it on my skyline. Is the only difference between the gtst and gtr recirc valves the pipe sizes on the larger end? can anyone confirm this or are is there other changes as well?

Seems to run fine with the new recirc valve, now it makes a funny "pchieww" type noise instead of pshhhhttt at gear changes, the cars responsiveness also seems ever so slightly decreased though it is a very subtle difference which is expected I guess. The cars small backfiring issue and occasionally lumpy idle also appear to be solved.

just get a mirage 1.5 radiator hose and cut it and it will fit to gtr bov and gtst stock plumb back piping :cool:

i posted the part number sum where but cant seem to remember what part number it was

just get a mirage 1.5 radiator hose and cut it and it will fit to gtr bov and gtst stock plumb back piping :cool:

i posted the part number sum where but cant seem to remember what part number it was

I just connected it by putting a piece of the smaller gtst bov type piping inside the larger gtr rubber piping, and then put a radiator clip thingie on it and joined it as normal. I don't think its leaking but I may test it further just to be sure.

I just connected it by putting a piece of the smaller gtst bov type piping inside the larger gtr rubber piping, and then put a radiator clip thingie on it and joined it as normal. I don't think its leaking but I may test it further just to be sure.

*cough* dodgey *cough*

*cough* dodgey *cough*

Why is it dodgey? Its a more secure fit than the stock plumback connection, if any connection does fail on my installation work it wont be this part. Anyway I would rate my work as alot better than the very messy previous atmospheric blow off valve installation.

Well the GTST ones aren't too flash for high boost and they do have a little hole in them that leaks off air a bit. People weld this up and then supposibly its fine for high boost. No idea why it is there from factory, maybe some one else can explain that. Perhaps a safety for a boost spike so it bleeds it off? I believe the GTR ones don't have this hole hence why they hold higher boost fine.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...