Jump to content
SAU Community

Eoi On 4.375 Ratio Diff Gears For Skylines

Strik3r
 Share

Recommended Posts

Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
Posted

So after my hunting around for gts4 diffs to transplant the crown wheel and pinion from into the GTR diffs, I found that these items are becoming harder and harder (AND more expensive) to come by. Particularly seeing as you have to buy the entire GTS4 rear diff and front sump and diff just to get the crown wheel and pinion out of both of them (nobody actually wants the viscous gts4 diff).

I was originally going to Cryotreat my CWP's to make sure they were up to the task, but after talking to a friend who has access to a CNC machine, we discussed the possibility of digitizing the crown wheel and pinion from the front and rear diffs out of a gts4 (4.375 ratio) and having a engineer produce replacement CWP's for people wanting taller diff ratio's. To the best of my knowledge, these diffs would suit 32's, 33's and 34's (rwd cars could just use the rear diff, while GTR's/Stagea's would use the front and rear). Another big advantage would be that the new CWP's would be constructed out of stronger materials, effectively upgrading the strength of the diff.

I'm no expert on any of this, but can possibly relay any questions that people might have. At the moment, i'm just trying to find out if there is enough interest to have this done. We will be able to set it up as a group buy and it should work out very cost effective. I havent done any number crunching, but to defray the cost of the cnc'ing and digitizing over the produced CWP's, i'm guestimating we'll need around 10 people in the group buy to make the process worthwhile. The more people we have, the cheaper it becomes. If i get enough interest in this thread, i'll have a chat to my friend and work out how much each CWP will cost.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

I would be interested, price dependent of course.

It is not just that they are hard to source, it is also the fact they these gears may be 19 y.o. and done 100,000km or more.

Strik3r Experienced

Strik3r

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so I talked with my contact about the crown wheel and pinions and after some research, he told me that his machine isn't specific enough for the job. We were referred to Albins Off Road gear - www.albinsgear.com.au who do a lot of work for the v8 supercars and rally cars. They basically said that it isn't going to be a cheap exercise unless we are talking about resonably high volume stuff.

The ball park figures we were quoted were $5000 for a 1 off CWP, and around $10000 if we got 5 CWP's. Presumably, it would continue to scale up, but at best guess we would need to be ordering something like 20 or 30 units before the per-unit cost got down to what I would consider reasonable levels (<$1000 per unit). I would have investigated further, but these sort of figures require more responsibility and co-ordination than I am willing to undertake at this point in time. If someone wants to continue to investigate this and organize a large-scale group buy, then I would be interested, but I'm not willing to take it on myself.

Thanks for the interest, and if someone wants to organize it, feel free to contact albins yourself.

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted

Probably better off sending it to someone who is more suited to runs of 1-10 sets of parts instead of a company who wants (or needs) at least 30+ to make it at all viable as their machine time is worth a lot more.

Thanks for the effort!

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted
$2000 for an end if there's an order of 10, so rear plus front = $4000 each person

Or $5000 for one end on a one off order.

Out of interested what material? Any heat treatment after?

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Out of interested what material? Any heat treatment after?

Something flash. Shot peened plus a magnitude of other treatments all included in the price.

Unsure of material, yeah heat treatment included.

The guy i spoke to was a Steve, he said the parts from them would be stronger than the OEM parts for sure

Yeh Steve is the guy i spoke with aswell.

They also do gearsets. Dog arrangement with forks, shafts etc between 8-9k. They list a synchro on their site but i didnt get a price on them.

Axles and shafts they can do aswell, again didnt get price.

33gtst Proficient

33gtst

Posted
Posted
Can I ask why people wan't a shorter ratio? I've got 4.375:1 right now and find it a bit too snappy and violent for an rb25.

same here,well may be not snappy and violent(cause mine is welded) but I have one in my 33 and really really hate it. Instead of using 3rd I now have to rely on 4th more for everyday street driving, and my 4th is a little bit special. Cant wait to get the diff out. LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...