Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have JUST finished installing my plenum. i just need the throttle cable shortened and im done.

some things that are still fresh in my mind:

- as soon as you get it, take it to a machinist to flatten ALL surfaces on it. it gave me peace of mind doing mine and i know its plumbed up perfectly with the head.

- buy some 2.75" silicon hoses and bends (stock size) as well as some super clamps. comes in handy when cutting up pipes to fit the new cooler rout.

- test fit the BOLTS into the holes of the plenum and check if there is enough clearance for a socket to fit and tighten the bolts all the way in, i had 1 of them get really tight, it was a pain in the ass to cover everything up and start grinding while it was installed on the car.

- if you want to re-use your gasket for whatever reason - make sure its not distorted. if it is it wont let your bolts through and meet with the head. take the gasket and fit it to the plenum while its off and bend it so that its straight and meets with the bolts with no distortion.

what i did to make my install easyer was fit a few longer bolts into the head first so i could slide the plenum in and out so i could guide some bolts through the gasket and into the head. i put 2 long bolts in (one on each end) and i put the other bolts on lightly so that they had JUST started on the threads then when i had most of them through the gasket and in the head i tightend them up and replace the long bolts with proper sized ones.

what happens is you put your gasket in, it sits on the 2 studs already there and the middle bends down so when you stick your bolts in afterwards the gasket gets in the way.

- top radiator hose: just flip it around and it will fit straight on.

- get some decent small clamps for things like your fuel system (dont use the ones they give you).

- just before fitting my plenum i put all the plugs that go into the bottom in first by holding it up near the plug. its a P.I.T.A. doing it while the plenum is already on, especially when the black/blue plug has a hose that runs RIGHT next to it.

- get some decent tools, i used all of my socket sets (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch). also get some ramps or car stands. ramps are #1 in my book.

- when you get your AAC valve fitting welded to your cooler pipe, get them to tap or weld a vacuum hose fitting to the turbo side so youve got a nipple on that side of the engine bay for a boost controller.

be patient, always think of your next step before you start something, start early in the day and have some beer and smokes handy and a shitload of band aids.

p.s. i have a china greddy copy on mine and i had it sanded down and powder coated by Chris from Craved Coatings and he told/showed me it had a shitload of bog in it which he replaced with some kind of alloy weld - so be warned. if you dont get it treated you risk it cracking and come off in the future which may cause air leaks.

p.s. i have a china greddy copy on mine and i had it sanded down and powder coated by Chris from Craved Coatings and he told/showed me it had a shitload of bog in it which he replaced with some kind of alloy weld - so be warned. if you dont get it treated you risk it cracking and come off in the future which may cause air leaks.

Got any pic's??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary. 
    • There's another sensor that sits inside the evaporator, that's a C U N T to get to, but can be done without removing the entire unit. Usually it's not the sensor that dies but the actual capacitor in the circuit (part of the plug that dies).  
    • Putting the climate control CU into diagnostic mode is independent of the ECU. You just have to do the dance prescribed in the manual. No, I do not know what the dance is. I have an R32, so use the dance in the R32 manual. On older cars, I would have said "no, the ECU should not affect whether the A/C works".... but for an R34 that might be wrong. I don't recall the detail, but there was extra mods required to make my R32 A/C work against the R34 ECU. The R34 ECU apparently gets involved in the running of the A/C more than earlier cars did. Theoretically, if the PFC is a true plug in, then it should just work the way that the original ECU does - wrt A/C. But there's always scope for them to have not cared. Nope. Pressure switch out = getting the fridgey out to pump the gas out before pulling the switch. The switch really cannot sense gas pressure unless it is up against the gas.
    • Hi guys, thanks for the replies.  I will have to wait till summer to test properly, but it short cycles both when heating and cooling. I’ve ordered a new internal temp sensor that sits under the vent in the steering wheel also, GTSBOY, I have an Apexi FC ecu, I’m assuming I won’t be able to diagnose or would it still work? Could the ecu be causing the problem??   the pressure switch is quite cheap I will get a new one and try it out, hopefully it doesn’t require purging the refrigerant again?
×
×
  • Create New...