Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think this issue is going to be one of those things based on what pressure the engine runs . If its higher than std then obviously something has to be done for the turbocharger . As Dirtman said restrictors are a far simpler means of restricting oil flow to the turbo but always remember that restrictors are flow related not pressure .

Anything in the system crud wise will damage engines and turbos so really everything has to be as clean as possible . I'm not really sure about the 0.8mm restrictor getting blocked up , if you had crunchy bits that big in the oil then you've got real problems downstream of the pump and filter (main oil filter) .

An oil strainer in the turbo oil line may not be a bad idea but you want to inspect them often , lack of oil kills turbos real quick .

If you really want to keep an eye on this theres no reason why you couldn't have an electric sender type oil pressure gauge in the oil line and experiment with restrictors . At least with the sensor there you can differentiate between engine oil pressure and turbo oil line pressure .

As a point of interest some businesses are turbocharging Quad bikes and their engines are more bike like than car engines - roller crankshaft bearings .

They survive very happily on "low" oil pressure - something like 10-15 psi but don't quote me .

Bush bearing turbos like a bit more than that so turbo'd bike engines seem to do better with ball bearing turbos because that bearing system doesn't need the extra flow and pressure that bush bearing turbos and slipper crank bearing engines do .

One thing I do know is that excess oil flow in ball bearing turbos adds extra drag for the balls so its something to avoid if you want good turbine response .

A .

Wouldn't an in-line filter (aka XR6 turbo) cure blockage worries with running small or multiple restrictors? The filter itself may knock a few psi off the pressure too?

Actually I'm sure hypergear supply in-line filters. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=391141 or http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-p...oil-filter.html

yes i forgot to add that i also recommend using (and do use myself) a Peterson filter in the oil feed line to the turbo. It saves your turbo if your engine happens to chew on some bearings.

What micron filter size are people using in the Peterson in line filters - I note there are a few sizes? Also which is better...with or without the bypass?

Edited by juggernaut1
What micron filter size are people using in the Peterson in line filters - I note there are a few sizes? Also which is better...with or without the bypass?

you use the -4 valve train spraybar filter 1/2 way down this page. Peterson part number 09-0730 its 60 micron.

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter_oil.html

Edited by DiRTgarage

lucking i didnt go and buy my oil lines today for my new turbos, i never thought about this.

ive got 2 x greddy td05 18g oil cooled only and ive got to get new lines made up what restricters should i run if any? and where do i get them from

also got standard oil pump

cheers

you use the -4 valve train spraybar filter 1/2 way down this page. Peterson part number 09-0730 its 60 micron.

http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/filter_oil.html

This protects the turbo from particles, but not starvation - assuming you are running with two restrictors and have one in at the block as well.

So really you need a restrictor after the peterson, and then another one at the turbo, rather than one at the block and another at the turbo??? That way all muck gets filtered before any restriction and also before the turbo.....

Am I right in my thinking? And would that be a better set up?

:/

Dirt suggested a 2mm restrictor at the block....if you've got particles in your oil that are around 2mm I think you've got bigger issues and the placement of the restrictor will be academic.
lucking i didnt go and buy my oil lines today for my new turbos, i never thought about this.

ive got 2 x greddy td05 18g oil cooled only and ive got to get new lines made up what restricters should i run if any? and where do i get them from

also got standard oil pump

cheers

They are not as fragile as the roller bearing units, i would not waste my money. Run normal line without restrictors for the TD series.

Dirt suggested a 2mm restrictor at the block....if you've got particles in your oil that are around 2mm I think you've got bigger issues and the placement of the restrictor will be academic.

But he also said engine failure, so your still starving the turbo, anyway, I'm in an industry where tiny particles jam together just like the thee stooges all trying to get out the door at the same time - irrespective, my question and the logic behind it still stands, why put a restrictor before your inline filter?

I'm in an industry where tiny particles jam together......

So your in the vacuum cleaner industry? :(

irrespective, my question and the logic behind it still stands, why put a restrictor before your inline filter?

Your logic is sound - put the restrictor after the filter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...