Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i have recently got married so a few things must change now!

stuff for sale

* Garrett gt3076 turbo $1500

* 3inch stainless dump/front pipe to suit the turbo $100

* nismo 555cc injectors $800

* Snow performance water meth injection complete kit $500

Apexi Power Fc with hand controller $1500

*gizzmo ms-ibc electronic boost controller $175

* this means item was brought new been on the car about 3000klms

call or sms 0416325149 or PM me thanks

apexi power fc is for sale on another post on here

:thumbsup: will post at buyers expence

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293148-r33-gtst-performance-parts/
Share on other sites

post-28208-1256264688_thumb.jpg

if you search the tutorial section i have a thread on the installation on the turbo and making of the dump pipe

i also have

an oil and water lines to suit this turbo made by GCG turbos speedflow fittings braided oil feed line $200

z32 afm 3000klms old genuine bosch $250

reason for selling realy is i just got married and have just bought a nissan patrol and i can only have 1 toy so the skyline has to go.

i want to sell it regestered so all aftermarket mods (illegal ones) are coming off the car returning it to standard

the parts are still on the car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...