Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The power band doesnt come from the gears it comes from the engine.

A powerband is where the engine is most efficient.

There are 3 efficiences to look out for when getting a HP/torque monster:

Those 3 are Volumetric efficiancy, mechanical efficiency and thermal efficiency.

- Volumetric efficiency is How well you engine can breath. An engine that has 100% volumetric efficiency is one that has all its cylinders 100% with air and fuel.

This can be improved with Mods like extracters, cams , exhaust system and the intake system.

Cams can increase air flow to provide more bottem end torque but sacrifice top end power and vice versa. Ive seen an RB30E dyno chart from an ordinary skyline and one out of a GTS1 and the normal Rb30E dies of at later RPM while the GTS1 engine can keep going for more RPM.Because the GTS engine uses a different cam and has had mild head work from factory while the other RB30E hasnt.

The exhaust system also can change the power band. Small diameter pipes can help to increase bottom end power while bigger pipes sacrifice bottom end power for better top end power.

For forced induction motors eg RB25DET bigger diameter pipes are suited to this engine as it would suffocate with smaller diameter pipes. Low back pressure is better.

But for an NA back pressure is better.

- Thermal efficiency is how well you engine can change the air/fuel's energy into rotating energy.

This is effected by the Compression Ratio, timing, combustion chamber design.

-Mechanical efficiency is how well your engine limits the amount of energy exhausted to power the engine itself from friction between parts.

Mechaincal effieciency gets worse as RPM increases because its takes more power to turn the engine at higher RPM than what it does at lower rpm.

Cams for racing use usually have narrow Powerband characteristics. They are usually put with a "Close Ratio Gearbox" to stop the revs from falling and to keep the engine reving at its powerband. Otherwise Revs would fall and your engine loses power. They usually have a very agressive power band eg (flat power, then when boost comes "strap on and feel the Gs")

The Best cam would be one that has great low end torque, a 10,000 RPM redline and and idle as smooth as silk. But no cam can deliver a Powerband from Idle to Redline. Your best bet to getting that would be to buy an after market cam. Head work and a high-flow exhaust systems and filters can help get better high end performance.

I hope I could clear that up abit. took me 1hr 14 mins to write.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-601224
Share on other sites

There are also things like VTEC which i think is in Hondas.

There are a few advantages with Vtec. Its like having the cams switched to a different profile for higher top end power while before the Vtec comes on having good bottom end torque.

The result is an engine with a broad powerband

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-601237
Share on other sites

I've noticed the same thing with my R33 GTSt.

Boost comes on at about 3,000rpm & gradually builds, but then there's a noticeable extra kick at about 5,000 that feels like a second turbo coming on or something.

Obviously my car only has one turbo, so I'm buggered if I know what that's all about.

My engine has no mods at all & I rarely take it up to 5,ooo revs, but jeez it's fun when I do!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-601928
Share on other sites

I believe it's a cpu mapping change....

It happen's when the AFM sesnor's the "foot flat" aspect and changes air fuel ratio's.....

why it does it after 5500 rpm i dont know.... Might have to consult a nissan engineer.....

where ever they are....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-601944
Share on other sites

The 'kick' that most people feel once their car reaches 5000rpm is the factory boost controller changing to a higher boost pressure.

Between 3000-5000rpm the turbo is running about 5-6psi, after 5000(or 4500rpm on my car) the boost will change to 8-10psi.

The factory nissan boost controller that is on the 33 has 2 settings, depending on RPM.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-601949
Share on other sites

It is not RPM dependant... Or anything releted to the stockj boost controller.

it's the VCT/cam and Also.. ECU

if you look at a dyno sheet, the ECU fuels right up around 4000-4500 rpm, and all stock ECU's get a dip around the point in their graphs.

After 4500 it goes away and the car's power picks right back up again.

Factory ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-601994
Share on other sites

@ 5000 RPM the cam solenoid is switched on, adjusting the valve timing, (only if the engine is under load though, wont do it just revving it). It also switches on the stock bleed valve (solenoid) in the waste gate actuator line to bleed some pressure off, (back into the low pressure side of your intake). The waste gate spring itself will limit boost top about 5 PSI, but bleeding some pressure off from the waste gate line gives you a little more boost (@5000 rpm). The amount of bleed is controlled by the size of the orificew in the solenoid.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29372-r33-powerbands/#findComment-602494
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
×
×
  • Create New...