Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey buddy im after the following stuff if u got pm me back if ur cool with the offer too:

> In-cabin driver-side Fuse box cover.--->$5

> OEM BOV in excellent condition with no leak---->$20

> LHS Mirror (whole lot if in black paint)---->$40

> Stock Turbo in good condition----> $??

> Steering wheel if still in good nic ---->$25

> Handbrake handle if still in good nic---->$5

cant edit first post so i guess i'll chuck some prices up for the main things....all these are ONO as im just making them up

near perfect dash pad with most of the dash plastics $50

decent carpet, just needs a clean $10

complete heater/aircon unit $20

washer and overflow bottles $10

shell has a good drivers side rear quarter $50

good complete passengers side door, door trim is average $150 looks to be sold though

near perfect taillights $50 a side for complete lights

perfect rear bar $50

good boot with wing, wing needs a bit of bog/fibreglass $50

aircon pump $20

front crossmember and rack, crossmember might be bent $30

front 5 stud hubs and uprights $50

good headlining $10

ignition barrel with key $50

stock castor arms $20

rear half of tailshaft $10

stock cooler piping $20

fuel tank with filler, no pump $10

rear cradle with lsd and shafts, no brakes or hubs $150

3-3.5in cat back exhaust, single straight thru muffler $100

stock front shocks with hks lowered springs $50

also have non r33 stuff

pair of S15 stock mags $50

pair of 300zx stock mags $50

both painted black with crappy spray cans, would come off prety easy

full set of 300zx brakes and rear 5 stud hubs

front has: calipers, pads, lines and rotors...took pics but they disappeared

rear has: calipers, pads, lines, rotors, 5 STUD HUBS and handbrake cables

$600

also got some alloy 300zx/GTR rear upright things (what the rear hubs bolt to) $100 just been bead blasted so look like brand new

hey you still got the dash?? if you have it witht he all the plastic center pieces would be good too, PM me ASAPPPP" and i might pick apart some stuff if u still got the dashh!!

cheers

Edited by dnggskyline
heath, sorry mate it had a pod

DarkRyda, you mean the little pop out tray thingo, yeah ive still got it. PM an offer

hey mate still available? can you send me your details so i can send you the money, i Pmed you! cheers.

sorry for the slow replys, still got no modem

dnggskyline, still got everything thats in the dash pics at the start of the thread

Darkryda, PM sent

probably best sending me a txt with what you want as the PM system on here takes too long to write back to everyone in the time i have on the computer

0438023584

cheers

Nick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...