Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Driving home from work tonight, the GTR started making a noise I havent heard before. From inside it sounds to be coming from the rear of the car like the exhaust is slightly bouncing up and down knocking into the metal frame. It only occurs while decelerating but its repetition is timed with the speed of the car so the faster I'm going the more often the noise goes. Almost like something builds up momentum and bounces up and down. It may also occur over bumps but the R33 is so loud I cant quite tell (and my hearing is subject to the placebo effect). The noise does not occur while accelerating or under brakes, gears and clutch position were irrelevant.

I jacked it up and started wobbling things trying to work it out but haven't found anything obvious enough to trigger my limited mechanical skills. Looked in the wheel arches for anything rubbing or stuck to the wheels but no. Checked all fluids levels were ok, nothing leaking (except airconditioning condensation), no eccesive knocking showing on the powerfc...

It's loud enough to concern me, I'm sure people driving next to me can hear it.

Any ideas?

Edited by Joshdc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294230-rear-end-knocking-noise/
Share on other sites

Driving home from work tonight, the GTR started making a noise I havent heard before. From inside it sounds to be coming from the rear of the car like the exhaust is slightly bouncing up and down knocking into the metal frame. It only occurs while decelerating but its repetition is timed with the speed of the car so the faster I'm going the more often the noise goes. Almost like something builds up momentum and bounces up and down. It may also occur over bumps but the R33 is so loud I cant quite tell (and my hearing is subject to the placebo effect). The noise does not occur while accelerating or under brakes, gears and clutch position were irrelevant.

I jacked it up and started wobbling things trying to work it out but haven't found anything obvious enough to trigger my limited mechanical skills. Looked in the wheel arches for anything rubbing or stuck to the wheels but no. Checked all fluids levels were ok, nothing leaking (except airconditioning condensation), no eccesive knocking showing on the powerfc...

It's loud enough to concern me, I'm sure people driving next to me can hear it.

Any ideas?

do you have adjustable rear upper control arms? mine are noisy compared to the stock bushs+control arm

-D

do you have adjustable rear upper control arms? mine are noisy compared to the stock bushs+control arm

-D

Stock arms as far as I know, the bushs arent stock, but that was changed wtih the suspension a few months ago and hasnt made the noise before.

I was thinking Diff as well!!!

Happened the the cef one day, was driving on one day n the diff was noisy! and then it got noisier then it went bang as i was doin a Ubolt! after had really loud bangs on excleration and deceleration the faster i went the quicker the bangs! Checked it out as i crawled home (everyone stareing) And found the diff was f**ked. Had to go out n buy a new diff

1.5 way LSD :P

Edited by MYCEF3

Yeah same i hope it isnt the diff as well!

If its youv looked at all the exhaust, coilies and other stuff that could knock or hit, the other is the diff (only coz the banging ur hearing)

Edited by MYCEF3
  • 5 months later...

Woops I forgot to post the resolution.

Luckily I found the source before I lost a wheel...

Turns out i am an idiot and didnt tighten a couple of wheel nuts properly. Caused this noise for a good week of driving - all good now though.

Thanks every for the suggestions.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...