Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you know I was going to sell my car for an r32. but after some time thinking about options and talking with my parents ive decided to keep it. But i really do want to make it something different. I was wondering if anyone has a General idea of the cost of a Strawberyy face conversion (s15 front on 180 back) it will probably be out of my price range. But it would be interesting to know.

thanks !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29437-strawberry-face/
Share on other sites

Firbeglass parts are about $5k, plus install etc, it all ads up.

For metal guards, exprect about $8k in just parts, plus installation.

I am still chasing a strawberry 180, but without anyone wanting to buy my r33, its a bit of a dillema :)

Maybe you wanna trade me your 180sx + cash for my r33? hehe, then I can save up a bit for the conversion myself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29437-strawberry-face/#findComment-601942
Share on other sites

Skyline Imports in adelaide do strawberry face kits in fibreglass (they have been for the last 3 yrs) and are pretty cheap these days.

I used to have one, loved my ichigo to death... then my insurance went thru the roof due to run ins with the law etc. anyways, the way I got mine was off a wreck in japan, cost me 4k all up and it was genuine bomex parts (metal fenders baby yaaaay).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29437-strawberry-face/#findComment-603544
Share on other sites

you can bring the kit for it in from queensland, i will find the link

its a good 5k and will still require piss farting around, like jeff said the radiator support panel is always important and instead of trying to go around it, you might as well incorporate it into the price.

I was wanting to do that, the pic of the blue one on the bomex site is excellent. also cardomain.com has a nice one there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29437-strawberry-face/#findComment-603628
Share on other sites

i got a adapter plate (which supports radiator n intercooler n all) with my kit... thought that would be part of the replica fibreglass kit too? You did have to cop 2 chunks off the front which goes under the standard 180sx front bumper. we used a angle grinder and some waterproof sealant to patch it up, then put an s15 front bumper on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29437-strawberry-face/#findComment-603649
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...