Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just installed a Profec B into my R34 GTR, and stuck on the last part. T'd the actuators into the new solenoid, blocked one hose off the factory solenoid, and blocked both plenum pressure outlets on the passenger side (found it much easier then digging in under the inlet mani). However, there are no fittings on the comp housings or hot side intercooler piping to get a reliable pressure source for the solenoid. What does everyone usually do? Take the factory source from the plenum, or drill and tap a fitting on the hot side "twin turbo" pipe? Would love to hear some options.

Tried searching but the function on this board is sooo vague at times..

Also taking suggestions on mounting the unit on the underside of the dash, double-sided tape keeps coming loose :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/294461-pressure-source-ebc-install/
Share on other sites

I'd stay away from sourcing it from the inlet mani/post throttle body.

Cos in a situation of say half throttle when your on boost, you signal wont read what the turbo is actually putting out.

Under half throttle the turbo will need to spool up more than say 10psi, for 10psi to reach the source...

I'd say find a good spot (reasonably close to the throttle body) and drill and put a hose barb.

And for f**ks sake, make sure its sealed. Some gasket maker should to the trick, better still, get a stainless hosebarb and weld it onto a bit of steel piping, the cross-over pipe to be exact... Don't use the hot side, its not very accurate (hot air = less dense = less pressure)

Happy boosting...

Ok. On an RB26 the inlet mani is pre-throttle bodies, so that would be close to the throttle bodies without being post, as you were suggesting. There is no crossover pipe either like other RB's.

In all my previous turbo cars i have always put a barb on the hot side, because i was always under the impression that it is better to be as close to the comp housing as possible.. I maybe totally wrong, but thanks for the feedback :(

Ok. On an RB26 the inlet mani is pre-throttle bodies, so that would be close to the throttle bodies without being post, as you were suggesting. There is no crossover pipe either like other RB's.

woops didnt see it was a GTR...

yeh doesnt really matter hotside vs. cold side, in the end doesnt make THAT much difference...

Plus taking it from the cold side allows for any tiny leaks in the cooler piping, and youl get that tiny bit more boost out of it.

I've always thought its more accurate cos closer to the TB(s) gives the signal of exactly the pressure that's going into the engine

But yeh, doesnt make a huuuge difference...

As for mounting it, try drilling two little holes in the plastic, then feed a cable tie through and around the controller. Thats if your cool with having 2 little holes in your dash that is...

As for mounting it, try drilling two little holes in the plastic, then feed a cable tie through and around the controller. Thats if your cool with having 2 little holes in your dash that is...

lol, that's actually what i thought about doing! Might use velcro though as R34 dash parts maybe a lil $$$ to replace.

does a profec b have 2 or 3 lines you plumb into engine ? you called it a pressure source . meaning where the pressure supply to open the waste gates comes from . or did you mean the signal line that actually tells the boost controller how much boost is on the intake manifold ? . reading your post i think you did and turbo x trail has the wrong idea about what you wanted

Sorry not sure if i had the right term or not, that's why i tried to describe it.

The Profec has a vacuum source which runs directly to the control unit inside the car. It has another line that runs from the solenoid, which i have t'd both actuators into.

The final line is meant to run from the solenoid to the compressor housing or hot pipe according to the instructions. That is the one which i would like an opinion on.

just use whatever line was going to your actuator before, put the T piece on it and run one line to your solenoid and the other to the profec, done. using the intake manifold for the pressure source is fine, everyone says you cant and it'll never control boost properly but i've never seen it not work perfectly

just use whatever line was going to your actuator before, put the T piece on it and run one line to your solenoid and the other to the profec, done. using the intake manifold for the pressure source is fine, everyone says you cant and it'll never control boost properly but i've never seen it not work perfectly

I heard that i shouldn't take it from the intake mani too, but it makes sense that you can... Perfect, exactly what i wanted to hear! Thanks dude.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...