Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My last 32 had a problem with the passenger power window switch and so did the current one I have now.. I have also noticed a few people chasing them because theirs doesnt work.

I Might have a simple solution for you.

*Pull the switch out of the door

*Unpick the tabs on the backside to pull the cover off the wiring into the switch

*Unpick the tabs to seperate the bottom half of the switch from the main body.

you should have something that looks like this now

IMG_2373.jpg

Take those two metal clips out and sand back the contacting points on the body and the clips so when it swings side to side it makes electrical contact against both ends.

make sure you clean up the contacting points WELL! even the little dimple in the clips.

re-assemble and align the switch back up to the centre of the metal clips and try it out. It fixed mine! There is no circuit boards in there so its not complicated on how it works

It is a good tip although unfortunately it did not help me in my case.

I opened up my Passenger switch on multiple occassions and cleaned the contacts immaculately with fine sandpaper and contact cleaner. Each time I did this the switch would work fine for up to a week max before being dicky again. Must have been an issue with the switch housing not squeezing the switch and contacts together properly (be careful with those tabs).

Eventually I cracked the shits and bought one off the forums here. Best thing I ever did :(

I think you will find one of those clips have popped out and moving around in your housing, as it should "click" when pivoted side to side, I did notice with mine that it only clicked one way, and had my suspicion when the clip wasnt correctly located when opening the housing up.. Also good to check if the little plastic tabs are worn which roll side to side in the clip.

Edited by BANGN
Thanks mate, it worked on the drivers side and then on the passenger side it didnt. Think the actual switch is sticking

It seems the drivers side is alot different to the passanger side though. Fixed mine, its amazing how dirty those points has become. Works like new now! Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...